It is important to use a torque wrench so you don't exceed the torque and
crack the hub. Remember it is tapered and will fail if over torqued.
Although the article used a modified socket inside, I believe a socket that
fits over the outside would also work. Might cost a bit more as you drill a
hole in the socket side wall for a 5/8" thru bolt. Using a large socket on
the outside might eliminate the need for the welded re-inforcement shown for
the inside socket.
--
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
"pittss1c" wrote in message
...
Eaa's vintage magazine just had an article about this exactly that showed
how to modify a socket so that a bolt goes through the hub and socket, and
you can attach a torque wrench to the socket. (they gave their torque
values in the article too.
The overhaul manual does have a specific procedure listed though...
I should say something like insert a long bar into the hub nut and use a
brisk strike against it with a brass hammer. this leads me to believe that
it isn't a precision activity.
(if no one answers, I can look it up when I get home)

Mike

SteveR wrote:
Can anyone tell me what I should torque the hub to on my A-75 (the
retaining piece that threads onto the engine crank)? I've searched the
continental engine manual and can't find this value.

Also, since there is no nut or bolt on this piece, is there an easy way
to make an adapter that will allow me to use my torque wrench on the
hub? How is the hub typically torqued onto the engine? I don't have
access to a welder to make an adapter.

Thanks!

Steve Ruse