Low rpm does save the prop, it also keeps the load on the
bearings a little less, throttle jockeying is worst, cold
oil doesn't flow quickly in response to throttle changes.
Also, if you have a constant speed prop, the governor uses
engine oil, so avoid taxing the oil pressure with rpm and /
or prop changes until the oil has had a chance to warm up a
little.

It also came to mind, that a sticking valve will cause more
wear on that cam/lifter assembly, so that can be a problem
to check.

Most engines have the oil pump at one end and oil pressure
is measured from a point on the other end, probably a cam
shaft gallery so that you can tell that oil passages are not
blocked. That is one reason for the "shutdown in 30
seconds" if you don't have oil pressure on starting note.

I like to idle an engine for a minute (4-5 minutes with
turbocharged engine) to allow it to cool before shutdown
while still having oil cooling. This would be at
1,000-1,200 rpm so the prop would be blowing some air
through the cowl. I then think it is a good idea to
throttle back to minimum rpm, to see that the idle is smooth
at 500-700 rpm range and I do a mag grounding check at that
point and then pull the mixture to shut it down. That
should show a slight 25-50 rpm increase just as it shuts
down since idle should be a little rich.

I start the engine at minimum throttle and using as little
priming as possible [wait after priming a few seconds to a
minute in cold weather to allow the fuel to vaporize, liquid
doesn't burn and it washes the oil off the cylinder walls]
then after it starts, advance the throttle smoothly to 1000
rpm to get some prop wash cooling and generator output.

Change to oil often, it is a lot cheaper to change the oil
than to tear down the engine. Use the best oil you can find
and the multi-weight oils do start working/ pumping faster.
Oil changes can be done by the pilot/owner as preventative
maintenance. A logbook entry is required and you must
follow the service manual procedures. Be sure to check for
leaks after the change and be sure to safety any drain
plugs. A quick drain system makes it a lot easier to do,
and an extension hose on the drain will keep the cowl clean.
Filters may not need to be changed every time if the oil
change is due to calendar time and condensation draining.
The oil filter does work on engine time in service since it
only functions when the oil is flowing and being filtered.
But follow the manual, if it says change the filter with
every oil change, you should do so.


--
James H. Macklin
ATP,CFI,A&P

--
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But government sees it as an obstacle to be overcome.
some support
http://www.usdoj.gov/olc/secondamendment2.htm
See http://www.fija.org/ more about your rights and duties.


"Jay Honeck" wrote in message
news:_J8wf.714011$xm3.343650@attbi_s21...
| Start with the throttle 1/2 open, zero rpm to 1800 with
no
| oil pressure. Etc.
|
| I aim to keep RPMs at 1000 (or less) from start-up to
run-up. (My A&P
| showed me that 1000 RPM is too low to kick up stones, so
being patient and
| taxiing slowly really saves your prop.)
|
| What do you think causes a problem like Ray's, Jim? It
just seems to, I
| don't know -- random.
| --
| Jay Honeck
| Iowa City, IA
| Pathfinder N56993
| www.AlexisParkInn.com
| "Your Aviation Destination"
|
|