On May 17, 1:27 pm, Paul Hanson
wrote:
At 14:48 17 May 2007, Bill Daniels wrote:

Hi Matt,

You probably don't want to hear this, but it is
my opinion and I'm sure everyone else with surge brakes
is going to hate me too, but here goes. GET RID
OF THE SURGE BRAKES. Replace them with electric ones,
with a GOOD

brake controller like a Tekonsha

Prodigy or an equivalent.

This is the same advice I have heard from several trailer
shops. They said
they don't even sell surge brakes anymore because of
customer complaints.
The replacement involves a new axle with electric brakes
and the tow vehicle
controller. I'd guess about $1200.

Bill Daniels

Thanks for backing me up on this Bill, you are actually
the one that got me on the electric brake kick (although
you probably don't remember) while I was visiting Sean
in 2005 with Towing my Sisu back from Elmira to Ca.
Thanks for turning me on to this setup, prices are
a bit cheaper than you think though. ;-)

Here is a link to a good online trailer parts supplier,
to give everybody an idea of prices, which does come
out to to around $600 on average, without even ebaying
or buying used which could obviously save even more.

http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/trailerbrakes/

Recommended parts needed a
Two 10 inch drums at around $70 apiece----------------$140
10 inch Left/right hand brake assy's at $40 each---------$80
Axle at $140(add $20 for the welding of spring mounts--$160
Good controller at (DrawTite IntelliStop is equivalent
to Tekonsha Prodigy, top of the line and key to function)$140
Breakaway kit -----------------------------------------------$40
Tie plate kit -------------------------------------------------$20

Total for parts ----------------------------------------------$580

I chose the 10 inch Dexter brakes rated for up to 3500#
(as opposed to the wimpy looking 7 inch 2000# setup,
which should also work) as well as the 3500# axle.
My original axle was straight and mounted on top of
my leaf springs, so I switched to a drop axle mounted
under the springs, which gave my suspension 2 full
extra inches of travel without changing the overall
hight of my trailer (and the frame had been bent where
the old axle bottomed out into the frame, courtesy
of the previous owners ), which has the advantage of
lowering the trailer's riding C of G, making it even
more stable. Very user friendly and robust, at a cost
of $600ish after wiring. Individual installations may
vary, but this setup would work for many, and variations
on it should not cost much more. Use this as a reference
to price out local options, and skip paying shipping
while supporting the locals, unless local taxes are
excessive.

There is a more expensive and exotic option I failed
to mention earlier, there are electrically driven hydraulic
setups (called electric over hydraulic) which gives
you the mastery of control and breakaway safety the
normal electric setup offers, while keeping your hydraulic
system basically intact. It is much more expensive,
(to setup if you have no brakes already, but comparable
in price if you compare converting existing hydraulic
setups vs replacing everything to run electric), heavy,
harder to install, and space/energy consuming but CAN
be done as an option. I'm sure some of you out there
are very attached to your hydraulic disc brakes and
such, and this might be a more suitable option for
you. I am more opposed to the surge mechanism for controlling
the braking, not the hydraulic actuation, although
pure electrics are easier to maintain long term with
less moving parts.

Again, if anyone wants specific help to set up their
personal trailer, I would be more than happy to assist.

Paul Hanson
"Do the usual, unusually well"--Len Niemi

Another supplier in several regions.

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/

Electric brakes have several advantages, and one big disadvantage.

As an occasional transporter and retriever of gliders other than my
own, electric brakes are normally useful only on the owner's tow
vehicle, thus useless on most others. That's fine as long as it's
understood.

IMVHO, you may not make it safely over I-70 (and some other passes) in
Colorado and several other western mountain passes without engine
braking with glider and trailer in tow.

Any trailer braking system needs to be well maintained, tested, and
checked in use.

Frank Whiteley