Ya got to sand it Ray, believe me that shiny surface
won't hold the bond. I have seen a whole lot of mylar
that didn't stick over the years, but to my knowledge,
none has come off that I installed using light sanding
with 220 dry. I'm only talking about the 10mm strip
under the mylar. There's nothing new here, we must
sand before painting, we must sand before applying
resin. it gives the surface a 'tooth'. Every now and
then I see a fiberglass patch that someone has scabbed
on without sanding the surface, I just get a fingernail
under one side and off it comes easier than removing
wing tape.
JJ

Of course, the hardest part of dealing with mylar is
getting the old stuff completely removed. The next
hardest is figuring out how to insure the mylar stays
stuck to the double sided tape.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina
LS1-d(t) :-)

At 06:12 31 July 2007, Bumper wrote:

'ContestID67' wrote in message
groups.com...
I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that
these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't
and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart.
The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John