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Old August 1st 07, 05:47 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
gfoster07k
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Posts: 15
Default installing mylar

On Aug 1, 8:46 am, "mmartin via AviationKB.com" u36204@uwe wrote:
JJ
Thanks for the advice. I will be taking on this project this week. Also,
Awhile back there was a thread regarding the LS3 and landing gear. You had
mentioned about testing the gear gas spring by pushing on the overcenter lock.
I could have retracted the gear and there was no snap back to the down
position. Your advice saved me from the gear eventualy retracting on roll
out.
Thanks
Mike





John Sinclair wrote:
Most owners can do a credible job of installing mylar
if they follow the rules:
1. Remove all gunk with acetone and elbow grease.
2. Sand the new mylar (just the 10mm that will be sttached)
and the corresponding area on the wing with 220 dry.
3. Clean wing with acetone and apply the double-back-sticky,
making sure to follow the edge and keep it straight!
4. Clean the mylar with acetone and follow the edge
of the sticky very closely (don't make any abrupt corrections
or you will form a kink) Keep tention on the mylar
as you remove about 24' on protectice covering from
the sticky, as you work along. I work from left to
right, always!
5. Force Mylar down by running over it with a small
roller, I use a small roller bearing on a stick.
6. Clean with acetone and apply the transition tape
(I use 20mm)
NOTE, be sure to use mlar that is wide enough to cover
all hinge recesses, but don't go any wider than necessary
or stick forces will increase. Hinge recesses can be
covered separately with small pieces of plastic (mylar)
held down with sticky, then covered with wide tape.
Ideally, movement of the control should not lift the
mylar.
Have fun,
JJ


At 17:42 29 July 2007, Mmartin Via Aviationkb.Com wrote:
I've read all the posts, several times, regarding mylar
seal replacemate. My

[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]


mmartin


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I have done this a couple of times and the seals were just fine for
about 5 years at a time. A couple of comments. The requirement to
get the old stuff off is critical. It means EVERY bit of the old
stuff so that the wing is pure white. The other comment relates to
the type of double sided tape. I used Tesa Polyester Tape used to
attach trim like chrome molding on cars. I got it at a body shop
supply store. My seals had been originally recessed into the gel coat
on top of the wings so the leading edge of the seal is flush and I
used a tape width that was as wide as the recess, (about 5/8 inch if I
remember right) to get maximum adhesion surface. The seals were
slightly cambered so the use of a small (linoleum in my case) roller
is also important to closely follow the removal of the tape second
side protective film. Otherwise the seal sticks at the inner and
outer edges due to the camber. Yes, I did 220 grit both the wing and
seal.

For what it is worth.

Greg .