I am trying to understand how electric brakes function when not plugged into the vehicle. * Are the brakes 'on' when unplugged? *How do you deal with grand handling the trailer if you want to move it manually? *Sorry of these seem like simple questions but I am trying to determine a cheaper way to add brakes to my trailer. *The ALKO axle was replaced with non-braked axle.

Brakes are not on when unplugged, so there are no extra procedures to
moving an unhooked trailer. These setups do use a 'breakaway kit'
however, which is a self contained battery/charger (with built in
indicator lights)/cable actuator on the trailer itself, that locks
them up in the unlikely event of trailer separation. This allows one
to temporarily use it as an e-brake when you need it to stay put for a
bit (and like their surge brethren are not a substitute for common
sense and wheel chocks...), and also provide one of two ways to test
them for function, the other being manually engaging the brakes from
the cab of the vehicle once hooked up. Also provides a tidy power
source for trailer interior lighting... In all fairness, the e-brake
on surge setups can also be used for a test, which due to my bias I
tend to forget.

Most elec brake controllers have automatic function (typically a gyro
stabilized pendulum actuator) that make them work similar to surge
brakes (but with in-cab/on the fly adjustability and work while
backing up) but also include an override 'throttle' lever that allows
one to manually modulate them from starting voltage to full-on, and is
displayed on an LED allowing one to quickly calibrate to the volt/
stopping power. Most have adjustable settings for the initial grabbing
pressure (by changing the initiation voltage), and a toggle button to
bump it up to three different 'boost' levels on the fly (open road/
congested road/city driving) in addition to the manual throttle lever
for engaging the trailer's brakes independently of the towing vehicle
(great to reduce sway after trucks/crosswinds, minor adjustments for
traffic spacing, taming curvy downhill sections, etc, -all without
affecting cruise control settings or eating into the gas mileage)

There is no cheaper way to add brakes then electrics, if that's what
you mean. You may be able to have the brake flanges welded to your non
braked axle (are you sure they're not there already?), and then you
need two drum/hub/brake components (sold as a unit), wiring,
controller and breakaway kit, assuming your rims/tires are compatible
with the brake equipped drum.

Take note here folks, even if you have no intention of equipping your
trailer with electric brakes (assuming you're not clinging to your
surge-ys...), if you ever change an axle, for god's sake buy one with
effin brake flanges already on it. The cost difference is near
nothing, and if you never wind up installing them they work exactly
the same as an axle without the flanges on it...

-Paul