On Jul 31, 10:19 am, " wrote:
On Jul 30, 6:47 pm, "Kyle Boatright" wrote:

Hey, Kyle...

Don't laugh, but give JB Weld a try :-)

Yeah, I know... hell of a ding. Big enough so that we're talking real
divots here. The patch had to have some serious structural strength.
Used a dental pick to create a key, added the JB Weld in three
applications, about twenty minutes apart, coarsely finished with a
rasp between layers 1-2 & 2-3. Let it cure about a week.

Use the water trick to make sure you've got the contour right. (ie,
arrange the thing so a flow of water across the divot catches the
light, tells you when there's no difference in contour between the
original surface and the divot. Use a sponge. W&D paper on a
stick.) All cleaned up (your FINGERS are more accurate than your
eyes), you can return the balance to near-zero by tapping lead foil
into a drilling on the tip, to zero-zero with PAINT when you blacken
the back-side.

I'm sorry to hear about the arm but damn happy to know it isn't
catching :-)

-Bob

Just a nit to pick on here.
The "back" side of a prop is the side the pilot cannot see
The "front" side of a prop is the side that you should "blacken"

JimV.