Just make sure you NEVER use an alkaline cleaner on internal engine
surfaces. The residue reacts with oil to make, in effect, soap. The
resulting frothy foam will destroy the engine in no time at all.
After all, soap is made from lye and fat (alkali plus oil).

Larry Smith wrote:

"Harry Burns" wrote in message
...

Simple Green works wonders for me.


Thanks, Harry.

I like the proprietary degreasers like purple stuff and whatever else is
sold as such. Dawn is good too, along with pressure and heat. We recently
rebuilt an engine for our arcadian air museum here in WNC. I took the
greasy glopped-up crankcase to the local Ford dealer where the garage
manager generously let us stick it in their clam. It is a huge
clamshell-like device like a dishwasher which cycles through several periods
of washing and rinsing. The case came out sparkling. The manager said
the secret was soap and water under pressure and 200 degrees F.

And finally I share with you a secret. Best in-the-field degreaser I have
found yet -- but you need to use a brush with it and mix it with hot
water --is Citra-Solv, an extract of orange peel and other citrus products.
Matter of fact the local tech school uses a similar citrus extract in its
engine parts cleaners. Not quite as effective as Stoddard solvent or
Varsol but passable, non-toxic, and water-soluble.

I try to stay away from anything too alkaline when cleaning or degreasing
aluminum, although I have seen people use that new Clorox with lye in it.

Sometimes you need a chemical like methylene chloride, one of the
ingredients in carburetor cleaner and paint remover, to get off varnish on
engine parts. That's some nasty toxic stuff but it will do the job. Use
special chemical-resistant gloves that reach up to your elbows, and don't
get it on your skin or breath the fumes.

Keep asking questions, Michael. Maybe you'll bring out a better crowd in
RAH. I wonder how many of the people who post here are genuine
homebuilders or restorers.