At 00:24 06 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 22:06:34 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

At 19:52 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote:

At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace
wrote:
.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the
more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the
radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work
OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because
otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to
slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original
cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm
not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no
better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not
least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--
If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply
wrap
it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be
totally
waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to
disconnect it.
Ben.

Sounds good to me. Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org


I have always prefered Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape.

But getting back to the original posting, we should never recommend
Belling-Lee and only use where there is no alternative.

Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm

Agreed - obviously an extra 50cm of uncut cable with just a BNF on the
end would be a lot better, but, as I said, I really don't want to mess
about with soldering etc in mid-air on a piece of cable that comes out
near the front end of the right side instrument panel support channel.

However, if you can point me at a description of how to to use
'Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape' after, presumably, soldering the

internal wire ends together, that would be interesting to know. Would it
be easier than making upo some sort of clip to lock the B-L halves
together?

I had in mind sleving the Belling Lee with Heatshrink and the internal glue
will seal to the outer of the co-ax eat each end. That should be
moisture-proof. I would Never suggest splicing co-ax.

However, another possible solution would be to use:
https://tinyurl.com/tseyff8 or similar. No Soldering required.

I don't particularly like these, but I like Belling Lee even less. At least
you will be using a 50Ohm connector which is moisture proof.


Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm