On Tuesday, October 15, 2013 1:23:20 AM UTC-7, Jim White wrote:
I agonised over this when I re did my own panel. My conclusions we

1) I would not reset or replace a fuse in flight so did not need them on
the panel.

2) Thermal trips need a large overcurrent for a long time before they go.
Low value trips introduce a large voltage drop.

So, I fitted in line blade fuses for all my equipment and use the panel

space for other things. I did buy a fuse block but decided it was too big

and made the wiring cumbersome.

Jim

I bought and tested Klixon CBs and the standard German panel mounted fuses when I re-did my panel last winter. The CBs had a significant voltage drop - corresponding to about 20 minutes of battery life at the end of a flight if I recall correctly. I was unwilling to give up the extra duration off my battery, so I stayed with fuses.

My panel is curved and my instruments are basically square behind the panel so there were several good triangular-shaped spots that could accommodate up to 5 panel-mounted fuse holders. I have never replaced a fuse in flight, but I could imagine a circumstance where a current spike (maybe from keying the radio) could blow a fuse that I might want to replace. Plus it's easier not to have to take off the canopy to get behind the panel. I've seen fuses mounted in the leg tunnel under the panel, which is an interesting alternative.

I'm a little nervous about putting automotive parts in my glider - for instance, I replaced all my wiring with Tefzel after experimenting with high current through the vinyl shielded Radio Shack variety.

9B