Landing the Blanik L-23. Some thoughts for your consideration:

Look at the cover of your MARCH 2006 SOARING magazine to see a proper
"round-out" attitude when landing a Blanik L-23. Nice photo. I made
copies for my Blanik briefing handouts. Note the positive wing angle
of attack and incidence in that photo. Fly the wing.

Read your Blanik flight manual about landing technique. Chapter /
para. 4.4.4.
It says to land the L-23 on the main. For other gliders, read their
flight manuals!

Think "round-out" rather than "flare" or "wheel landing". "Round-out"
is probably British, so read Derek Piggott. He's British and a
brilliant instructor. Mentor to us all.

Also try a little less than full airbrake - just a bit - to make a nice
landing in an L-23. Note that the handle travel in the cockpit "slot"
does not correspond to the amount of airbrake out. Just bring it
forward an inch or so, to go from full airbrake to half airbrake. If
flying an older Blanik L-13, make darn sure you've got the airbrake
handle in hand and not the flap handle!

If you are a light pilot, apply full airbrake after touchdown to stick
it on the ground. If you bounce or "balloon", reduce airbrake to zero,
pitch nose down a bit and try it again!

However, when landing off-airport consider using full airbrake and
two-point for low energy, less roll out. Heavy wheel braking will put
a Blanik up on its nose, followed by a hard bang down onto the
tailwheel.

Never push a Blanik backwards especially in grass or rough ground.
Pull it by a shoulder harness strap, never by the wingtips. Never pull
ANY glider by the wingtips. (See flight manual.)

At Marfa in west Texas, I train pilots of all skill levels in my two
Blanik L-23's. They are quite stout. They are NOT fragile, nor is
anything wrong with the tailwheel design. IF you bang the tail down
hard many times or allow it to land tailwheel first, over time, after
many, many hard tailwheel landings, you might break something. Fly it
as recommended by the manufacturer. Read the instructions! This
concept works well with most flying machines, and when assembling
furniture from IKEA.

Maintain your glider. Check the tailwheel area often and replace the
three rubber donuts as required. Blanik America has them in stock.
Get some spare donuts. Drop the tailwheel out and grease the tailwheel
"post". Change the centering spring if needed. Grease the main gear
strut fittings often and especially when changing the tire - it's
easier without the tire in there! Blanik America can supply the
special grease gun fitting adaptor thingy. Keep the main gear shock
strut serviced with nitrogen. Again, read the service manual that came
with your glider. Vitek at Blanik America is very good about
obtaining the Czech parts and giving advice.

As for "wheel landings", I once suggested to a transition (Cub) pilot
that he try landing my Blanik like he would wheel-land a Cub. Geez, at
3 feet above the runway he shoved the stick forward hard and fast.
Banged us down so hard I was sure we broke something, but the mighty
Blanik took the punishment without damage. As I said, stout aircraft.
It wasn't good Cub wheel-landing technique either.

(As an instructor, one learns to be careful about what you suggest.
Best to take the stick and demonstrate it as many times as needed
rather than risk damage by the heavy-handed student who is guessing at
the proper site picture / technique.)

So think "round-out". Get the site picture right. Smile. Relax.
Broaden out your peripheral vision. See it all. Be one with the
glider. Listen to your Instructor, and when you go solo in the Blanik
L-23, don't try it any other way.

Have fun!

Burt Compton, Master CFIG, FAA Designated Pilot Examiner
Marfa Gliders, west Texas
www.flygliders.com