"Darrel Toepfer" wrote in message
...
jls wrote:
"Darrel Toepfer" wrote:

Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...

410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
respectively

My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC
43-13-1B.
If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a
while.
Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you
doin',
trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
submarine.

Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder
base
on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working
with.

Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?

20 in. lbs. but only with silicone gaskets, which you should be using
because the other kind don't work. If the non-silicone I use a gasket
sealer like silicone or Hylomar and tighten gingerly until leak stops. Go
too far and they will never stop leaking.

We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...

Thanks again for the info...

Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks around the
crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that isn't
a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.

If your quick-drain valve is leaking around the threads, get a good supply
of crush washers. If around the valve itself, clean or replace. You may
be able to lap it in with some fine lapping compound, but nowadays those
quick-drains are a lot cheaper than they used to be.

Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.