The engine is finally back!

After sending my Lycoming AEIO-540 to the factory for a mandatory repair it
has finally returned. At Oshkosh this year the people at the Lycoming booth
swore it would take only two weeks, but when the actual paperwork arrived
everything said one month in the shop. It ended up taking a little over a
month, from the day it was crated by my mechanic to the day it was returned.

Lycoming says they will pay for the costs of removing and remounting the
engine, along with the shipping as well as the repairs. Mine only had a
little over 300TT. I guess they figure the costs of the new crankshafts as
well as the repairs for all of the engines would be a lot cheaper than
series of very expensive product liability lawsuits!

Anyway, it looks like it'll need mineral oil for a while, and then there's
also the risk of something else working loose or breaking after the removal
and install- we'll have to wait and see in this regard. I may take it and
run it hard for a few hours, and then take it back to the mechanic to pull
the cowling and make sure everything stayed tight.

I've heard a lot of different advice on breaking in a new engine- run at
full power, don't run at any power for a long period of time, vary the power
settings (MP and prop), etc. Any advice? When do you switch back to regular
detergent oil?

Viperdoc wrote:

I've heard a lot of different advice on breaking in a new engine- run at
full power, don't run at any power for a long period of time, vary the power
settings (MP and prop), etc. Any advice? When do you switch back to regular
detergent oil?

Lycoming should have sent a copy of their recommended procedure with
the engine. If not, I'd get on them to give you a set of guidelines so
that if there is a failure during the breakin period they can't tell
you that you used the incorrect procedure.

Craig C.

As others have said, follow the Lycoming recommendations to the letter.
It will involve high power settings until the rings seat (assuming you
have new rings) and you will use mineral oil until that happens. The
event will declare itself with lower CHT and reduced oil consumption.

I did my first 30 minutes orbiting the airport with tower permission.

Glad you got it back! Hopefully it will be a smooth install and no future
problems.

Google "Lycoming engine break in " and you'll get several hits directly from
Lycoming's site regarding break in. If there is any warranty remaining, I
would call Lycoming and ask them directly, then document the call and their
advise. (just in case)

Congrats. Glad you got it back.

Jim

"Viperdoc" wrote in message
...
After sending my Lycoming AEIO-540 to the factory for a mandatory repair
it
has finally returned. At Oshkosh this year the people at the Lycoming
booth
swore it would take only two weeks, but when the actual paperwork arrived
everything said one month in the shop. It ended up taking a little over a
month, from the day it was crated by my mechanic to the day it was
returned.

Lycoming says they will pay for the costs of removing and remounting the
engine, along with the shipping as well as the repairs. Mine only had a
little over 300TT. I guess they figure the costs of the new crankshafts as
well as the repairs for all of the engines would be a lot cheaper than
series of very expensive product liability lawsuits!

Anyway, it looks like it'll need mineral oil for a while, and then there's
also the risk of something else working loose or breaking after the
removal
and install- we'll have to wait and see in this regard. I may take it and
run it hard for a few hours, and then take it back to the mechanic to pull
the cowling and make sure everything stayed tight.

I've heard a lot of different advice on breaking in a new engine- run at
full power, don't run at any power for a long period of time, vary the
power
settings (MP and prop), etc. Any advice? When do you switch back to
regular
detergent oil?

Same here.

"Paul kgyy" wrote in message
ups.com...
snip
I did my first 30 minutes orbiting the airport with tower permission.

I'll echo that... we did an overhaul by a local shop. Piper Pawnee
O-540-235HP with STC to 250HP

He did his normal run at the shop.. then once installed.. it was a quick
(short) static run (mag check) to check oil pressures and leaks.. then shut
down inspect...

Then it was start and go.. no ground time.. it was 100F out and we did not
want to overheat on the ground... FULL Power climb to 10,000MSL where the
outside temps were cooler and we could run it full throttle at cruise.
Stayed there for 1+30 monitoring oil temp and pressure (no CHT available).

A few more flights at altitude to accumulate about 5 hours total before
putting it to work, glider tow.

Over 55 hours on the engine now and just swapped from Mineral to regular AD.
All appears well.

BT

"dlevy" wrote in message
news
Same here.

"Paul kgyy" wrote in message
ups.com...
snip
I did my first 30 minutes orbiting the airport with tower permission.

Before starting the last engine I put together, I borrowed a oil pressure
pot to fill the galleys.
Attached at the oil pressure takeoff and pushed oil in by air pressure
before the first start.
Used a quart or so. It not only fills the galleys but also pumps up the
lifters.
Engine fired on the 2 blade and ran smooth!

Kent Felkins
Tulsa


"Viperdoc" wrote in message
...
After sending my Lycoming AEIO-540 to the factory for a mandatory repair
it
has finally returned. At Oshkosh this year the people at the Lycoming
booth
swore it would take only two weeks, but when the actual paperwork arrived
everything said one month in the shop. It ended up taking a little over a
month, from the day it was crated by my mechanic to the day it was
returned.

Lycoming says they will pay for the costs of removing and remounting the
engine, along with the shipping as well as the repairs. Mine only had a
little over 300TT. I guess they figure the costs of the new crankshafts as
well as the repairs for all of the engines would be a lot cheaper than
series of very expensive product liability lawsuits!

Anyway, it looks like it'll need mineral oil for a while, and then there's
also the risk of something else working loose or breaking after the
removal
and install- we'll have to wait and see in this regard. I may take it and
run it hard for a few hours, and then take it back to the mechanic to pull
the cowling and make sure everything stayed tight.

I've heard a lot of different advice on breaking in a new engine- run at
full power, don't run at any power for a long period of time, vary the
power
settings (MP and prop), etc. Any advice? When do you switch back to
regular
detergent oil?

Fly wrote:
Before starting the last engine I put together, I borrowed a oil pressure
pot to fill the galleys.

I did something similar when I replaced the engine in a van I owned long ago. I
scavenged an empty freon tank, removed the valve, and poured four quarts of oil
into it with a funnel (seemed to take forever). Then I put the valve back in and
hooked it up to an air compressor. Once I got it pressurized, I turned it upside
down, hooked it up to the hole for the oil pressure sending unit, and opened the
valve.

George Patterson
Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to
your slightly older self.

At Oshkosh this year the people at the Lycoming booth swore it would take only two weeks, but when the actual paperwork arrived everything said one month in the shop. It ended up taking a little over a month, from the day it was crated by my mechanic to the day it was returned.

You've never been lied to before? You dumbass MoFo.

I did something similar when I replaced the engine in a van I owned long ago. I
scavenged an empty freon tank, removed the valve, and poured four quarts of oil
into it with a funnel (seemed to take forever). Then I put the valve back in and
hooked it up to an air compressor. Once I got it pressurized, I turned it upside
down, hooked it up to the hole for the oil pressure sending unit, and opened the
valve.

Probably think you're clever don't you asshole?