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#1
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I've started on my plane!!!!
I have a couple of questions that should be easy for you guys to answer... The first one is almost stupid but I'm anal about these things: What grit of sand paper is ideal for sanding/deburring the cuts I've made in 6061-T6? The saw/blade I used really did a good job to the point that it almost doesn't need sanding but like I said - I'm anal about this stuff. The second question is more technical: I'd planned to use 6061-T6 plate in .125" thickness for my gussets. I've found a source for plate in the same sizes but in 5052 w/no "-" number listed. I looked up the numbers and 5052 appears to have very similar strength to 6061. Can someone advise me if using 5052 is advisable and if I need to look for a specific "-" number? The 5052 is only slightly cheaper but much easier to find...I'm interested in doing the job right. BTW: Here is where I'm at on the build... http://68.35.241.46/plane/index.htm |
#2
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5052 is very soft compared to 6061. 5052 is often used for fuel tanks.
Stick to 6061, or whatever the designer specifies. John |
#3
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In article , John T
wrote: 5052 is very soft compared to 6061. 5052 is often used for fuel tanks. Stick to 6061, or whatever the designer specifies. John Not only that -- but it is potentially fatal to use something in a structural location if you don't know its temper. |
#4
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![]() nondem wrote: I've started on my plane!!!! I have a couple of questions that should be easy for you guys to answer... The first one is almost stupid but I'm anal about these things: What grit of sand paper is ideal for sanding/deburring the cuts I've made in 6061-T6? The saw/blade I used really did a good job to the point that it almost doesn't need sanding but like I said - I'm anal about this stuff. The second question is more technical: I'd planned to use 6061-T6 plate in .125" thickness for my gussets. I've found a source for plate in the same sizes but in 5052 w/no "-" number listed. I looked up the numbers and 5052 appears to have very similar strength to 6061. Can someone advise me if using 5052 is advisable and if I need to look for a specific "-" number? The 5052 is only slightly cheaper but much easier to find...I'm interested in doing the job right. The *-* number is commmonly referred to as 'the temper', it tells you how the material has been heat-treated. That is really important as the strength depends on it. If you buy the material in the annealed state, which is the softest state, you'll need to get it hardened. That in turn, is non-trivial. 6061 has good corrosion resistance, I dunno about 5052. Electrolytic Corrosion is always a consideration when mixing alloys. Respectfully, you should be at least as anal about material choice as about finishing the cut edges. Speaking of that, I suggest you get a 'multipack' of sandpapers and work your way down through the grits until the edge is shiny without visible scratches. Then you can guage how much of what grits you'll need to buy. BTW: Here is where I'm at on the build... http://68.35.241.46/plane/index.htm Looks good. Thanks for putting up your pages. -- FF |
#5
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nondem wrote:
I've started on my plane!!!! I have a couple of questions that should be easy for you guys to answer... The first one is almost stupid but I'm anal about these things: What grit of sand paper is ideal for sanding/deburring the cuts I've made in 6061-T6? The saw/blade I used really did a good job to the point that it almost doesn't need sanding but like I said - I'm anal about this stuff. The second question is more technical: I'd planned to use 6061-T6 plate in .125" thickness for my gussets. I've found a source for plate in the same sizes but in 5052 w/no "-" number listed. I looked up the numbers and 5052 appears to have very similar strength to 6061. Can someone advise me if using 5052 is advisable and if I need to look for a specific "-" number? The 5052 is only slightly cheaper but much easier to find...I'm interested in doing the job right. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/aluminfo.php is a very good explanation. 5052 isn't considered heat treatable, that is mostly why there is a "-". This also makes it a good choice of alloy for welding (it is popular for fuel tanks). The heat from welding usually results in a heat treatable alloy (such as 6061, for example) not being tempered anymore (starts out as -T6 but becomes O after welding, for example). I would use a file to clean up the edges and burrs. I wouldn't use sandpaper because bits of the abrasive material may become embedded in the workpiece and create a corrosion problem later on. For similar reasons, I've been told not to use a pencil for marking aluminum (measurements, notes), although a Sharpie pen is acceptable. Then again, the designer may have taken these issues into account. The other responses address the question of substituting one for the other. Nice webpages ![]() |
#6
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Really, you couldn't find any? Try these,
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=sheet&LimAcc=$LimAcc&aident= http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...owunits=inches |
#7
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![]() Jim Carriere wrote: nondem wrote: ... What grit of sand paper is ideal for sanding/deburring the cuts I've made in 6061-T6? The saw/blade I used really did a good job to the point that it almost doesn't need sanding but like I said - I'm anal about this stuff. ... I would use a file to clean up the edges and burrs. I wouldn't use sandpaper because bits of the abrasive material may become embedded in the workpiece and create a corrosion problem later on. For similar reasons, I've been told not to use a pencil for marking aluminum (measurements, notes), although a Sharpie pen is acceptable. WIth pencils, the issue is the graphite. There is a similar problem if steel wool is used on aluminum. A lot of sandpapers use Aluminum Oxide (Alundum) grit. That is the same oxide that forms naturally on aluminum so that should not be a problem. But most of the wet/dry papers use silicon carbide, (carborundum) which may be a problem. -- FF |
#8
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#9
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To deburr use a deburring tool which will take the sharp edge off the
inside of the tubing and the edges of sheet, finish with scotchbrite pads. Use the 6061-T6. Bob |
#10
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To deburr use a deburring tool which will take the sharp edge off the
inside of the tubing and the edges of sheet, finish with scotchbrite pads. Use the 6061-T6. Bob There is also a rotary version of the scotchbrite pad(s) that is really slick. Peter |
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