Reaming

Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about
20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the
bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me
the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of
them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All
hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm
already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale.
So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you
use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in
each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

In article ,
Fortunat1 wrote:

Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about
20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the
bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me
the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of
them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All
hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm
already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale.
So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you
use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in
each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and
keeps the tool cool.

The problem is hardening of the hole edge due to the heat of the laser or
plasmas cutting torch. The material you are reaming is slightly hardened.

Stan Kapushinski

"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message
news
In article ,
Fortunat1 wrote:

Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about
20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point
the
bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me
the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of
them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All
hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm
already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale.
So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use
in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you
use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4.
The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in
each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and
keeps the tool cool.

"Fortunat1" wrote in message
...
Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about
20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the
bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me
the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of
them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All
hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm
already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale.
So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use
in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you
use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4.
The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in
each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

Hand reamers will develop burrs on the leading edges of the cutters as you
use them. I have used a small carborundum hand stone to remove the burrs on
larger reamers, used to ream engine valve guides. Yours are smaller, so it
might be harder to find a stone small enough or with the correct geometry to
deburr them. But if you can find a stone, use it along the radial flats on
the leading edges of the cutting edges, and the reamer will be good as new
for a while.

Fortunat1 wrote:
Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for about
20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to the point the
bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last me
the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a dozen of
them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers. All
hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same boat I'm
already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for sale.
So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer designed for use in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can you
use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4. The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the holes in
each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!


As has already been mentioned laser cutting has hardened the metal
around the hole. if your drill press runs true go with the carbide
tipped. Avoid solid carbide since the average drill press doesn't run
true enough to prevent breakage. If you need a very smooth bore go with
a spiral reamer, if not go with straight. Depending on size and from
whom you purchase the difference in price can run from about a dollar to
slightly phenomenal. As has also been stated use cutting oil and debur
the reamer as needed.

Things that can reduce reamer life: rotating them backwards, wobbling
when used, spun too fast, not using cutting oil, poor storage practice,
using the wrong type for the material, not cleaning the reamer after
use, drilling too small a hole before reaming and throwing across the
room when you discover you were supposed to use an under size reamer
vice the over size one you just used (the most entertaining time for
this to happen is after you have spent hours getting to the point you
need to ream and you are almost finished). In short use common sense.

Having said all this I will add having an extra reamer in sizes you
will use a lot is handy.

I have also noticed plans for various projects I have worked on have
one thing in common: the more complicated the project the more likely
they will call for a size I don't have. This is why I have about 80
different sizes ranging from 0.0135 ( I don't even remember what I used
it on) to 1.5" which I have used for steam engine cylinders.

Good luck with your project.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Orval Fairbairn wrote in
news
In article ,
Fortunat1 wrote:

Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for
about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to
the point the bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last
me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a
dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers.
All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same
boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for
sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer
designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or,
for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as
a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and
1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about
1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then
clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of
the holes in each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot
and keeps the tool cool.

Just 3in1. It didn't seem to generate a lot of heat. I was only using a
hand drive on it. I'll try a good grade of cutting oil instead next time.

Thanks!

"StanKap" wrote in
:

The problem is hardening of the hole edge due to the heat of the laser
or plasmas cutting torch. The material you are reaming is slightly
hardened.


Yeah, I kind of figured that that might be a problem, though it was easy
enough to clean up the edges with a flapper wheel. Also I think the laser
might have been a little conservative cutting the holes 1/64 under making
it slightly hard work for the reamer. Towards the end, before it died, I
was gently knocking the edge off the burnt bit with a rat tail file. I
suspect the reamer might nt have been the best quality either.



Bertie

"Dale Scroggins" wrote in
:


"Fortunat1" wrote in message
...
Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for
about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to
the point the bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last
me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a
dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers.
All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same
boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for
sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer
designed for use in
a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or, for that matter, can
you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as a hand reamer?
Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and
1/4. The
material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about 1/64
undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then clamp
together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of the
holes in each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!

Hand reamers will develop burrs on the leading edges of the cutters as
you use them. I have used a small carborundum hand stone to remove
the burrs on larger reamers, used to ream engine valve guides. Yours
are smaller, so it might be harder to find a stone small enough or
with the correct geometry to deburr them. But if you can find a
stone, use it along the radial flats on the leading edges of the
cutting edges, and the reamer will be good as new for a while.


Well, it's stil cutting but now the bolts don't fit into the holes, so
I'd say it's past it's sell by date now. i do have some good wet stones
for sharpening gouges that would probably do the job, so I might try
them on this ruined one to see if it puts he sparkle back on it's cut,
though.

Dan wrote in :

Fortunat1 wrote:
Another stupid question!

Been reaming holes in a few 4130 plates. The reamer worked fine for
about 20 holes and then the holes started getting a bit smaller to
the point the bolts got a bit snug.
In my ignorance I thought this one hand reamer would pretty much last
me the whole project, but it's obvious I'm going to need a half a
dozen of them at least just to do the wing hardware.
I did a bit of searching on the net and found some info on reamers.
All hand reamers seem to be HSS which would put me back in the same
boat I'm already in so I was tempted by the carbide reamers I saw for
sale. So, my question is; can you use a carbide tipped reamer
designed for use in a lath in a simple drill press effectively? Or,
for that matter, can you use a reamer designed for use in a lathe as
a hand reamer? Or am I just barking up the wrong tree altogether?

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and
1/4. The material is .090 4130 and the holes were all laser cut about
1/64 undersize. I would ream the first hole in each plate and then
clamp together the plates in pairs to ensure accurate alignment of
the holes in each pair of plates.
Just in case it's not the reamer's fault at all!


As has already been mentioned laser cutting has hardened the metal
around the hole. if your drill press runs true go with the carbide
tipped. Avoid solid carbide since the average drill press doesn't run
true enough to prevent breakage. If you need a very smooth bore go
with a spiral reamer, if not go with straight. Depending on size and
from whom you purchase the difference in price can run from about a
dollar to slightly phenomenal. As has also been stated use cutting oil
and debur the reamer as needed.

Things that can reduce reamer life: rotating them backwards,
wobbling
when used, spun too fast, not using cutting oil, poor storage
practice, using the wrong type for the material, not cleaning the
reamer after use, drilling too small a hole before reaming and
throwing across the room when you discover you were supposed to use an
under size reamer vice the over size one you just used (the most
entertaining time for this to happen is after you have spent hours
getting to the point you need to ream and you are almost finished). In
short use common sense.

Having said all this I will add having an extra reamer in sizes you
will use a lot is handy.

I have also noticed plans for various projects I have worked on
have
one thing in common: the more complicated the project the more likely
they will call for a size I don't have. This is why I have about 80
different sizes ranging from 0.0135 ( I don't even remember what I
used it on) to 1.5" which I have used for steam engine cylinders.

Good luck with your project.


Thanks. Of the above, I did keep it clean, didn't turn it backwards
storage was good, oil might not have been perfect (3in1) but I did have
trouble keeping it dead straight.. I tried to keep it as steady as
possible, but I did chatter t from time to time. The reamer i used was a
spiral one.
You have me wondering now about the wisdom of using my drill press,
since it's only a cheapie. I did go out and try it using my now piece
of junk (pointless since it goes the wrong way round) but I did see that
it's not turning 100% true at the tip. I'll just have to get a good
quality reamer and prepare each hole carefully. I'll see if I can get a
drill bit that brings he holes a little closer to the final size.

Orval, I ain't a tinbender and don't pretend that I am. However, if the
(for instance) 1/4" hole is a sixty-fourth undersize, it should come out
0.234". A letter-D drill will take it out to 0.246" (admittedly with some
triangularity) which should significantly cut into the laser hardened part
of the steel, then the reamer only has to take off the last four thou.

If you want to cut yourself some more leeway, a letter-C drill will take it
out to 0.242 and then you get to ream eight thou.

And for the rest of you, PLEASE SNIP EVERYTHING in the message you are
answering except a few pertinent lines.

Jim

--
"If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right."
--Henry Ford





"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message
news

By the way, just for info, the holes I've beenreaming are 5/16 and 1/4.


Did you use cutting oil? Even plain old lubricating oil helps a lot and
keeps the tool cool.