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A member of our EAA chapter has a cylinder from a Franklin 150 engine
(off the engine.) The piston was pushed too far up and the top ring sprung out so it now overlaps the cylinder sleeve which locks the piston in place. Does anyone have a technique to get the piston out? Preferably while doing the least amount of damage. (So no explosives, please!) Thanks, Paul |
#2
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Paul Dow (Remove Caps in mail address) wrote:
(So no explosives, please!) Thanks, Paul How do expect any help if you tie our hands? |
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Gig 601Xl Builder wrote:
Paul Dow (Remove Caps in mail address) wrote: (So no explosives, please!) Thanks, Paul How do expect any help if you tie our hands? "There are very few of man's problems that can't be solved by the proper application of the appropriate explosives." - Ragnar "oops" Benson Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired |
#4
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![]() "Dan" wrote in message ... "There are very few of man's problems that can't be solved by the proper application of the appropriate explosives." - Ragnar "oops" Benson "Blo-Jell ! The plastic explosive you use at home. Great for those pesky stuck window frames; better than a string and a doorknob for removing Junior's loose tooth" (As remembered from the Prairie Home Companion show) Vaughn |
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Vaughn Simon wrote:
"Dan" wrote in message ... "There are very few of man's problems that can't be solved by the proper application of the appropriate explosives." - Ragnar "oops" Benson "Blo-Jell ! The plastic explosive you use at home. Great for those pesky stuck window frames; better than a string and a doorknob for removing Junior's loose tooth" (As remembered from the Prairie Home Companion show) Vaughn I prefer hand grenades. They can be used for fishing, removing walls from fingerprints, getting your neighbour to stop mowing the lawn too early..etc. Hand grenades are also very effective for painting rooms. One opens a can of paint, places it on the floor in the geometric centre of the room, pulls the pin from the grenade, drops it into the, vacates the room, and voi ci, a painted room. Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired |
#6
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A member of our EAA chapter has a cylinder from a Franklin 150 engine
(off the engine.) The piston was pushed too far up and the top ring sprung out so it now overlaps the cylinder sleeve which locks the piston in place... The last time I heard of that happening, the guy sawed the cylinder head off the top of the cylinder with a bandsaw. In the process, he zinged the piston pretty bad, pretty much ruining everything there. My advice would be to see if there's a cylinder overhaul shop with the capacity of unscrewing the head from the barrel. If so, send it to them and see if they can rescue it. If not, make a lamp or bookend out of it. Thanks, Bob K. |
#7
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![]() "Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message ... A member of our EAA chapter has a cylinder from a Franklin 150 engine (off the engine.) The piston was pushed too far up and the top ring sprung out so it now overlaps the cylinder sleeve which locks the piston in place... The last time I heard of that happening, the guy sawed the cylinder head off the top of the cylinder with a bandsaw. In the process, he zinged the piston pretty bad, pretty much ruining everything there. My advice would be to see if there's a cylinder overhaul shop with the capacity of unscrewing the head from the barrel. If so, send it to them and see if they can rescue it. If not, make a lamp or bookend out of it. Thanks, Bob K. That'd be my advice as well. I've watched as one of these shops mounted a cylinder in their jig and very precisely and evenly heated the head until it unscrewed. I was told they keep the aluminum head and replace the steel barrel. I'd bet your friend won't be the first to show up with this problem. |
#8
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Thanks for the replies.
Unfortunately it looks like the head doesn't unscrew like a Lycoming or Continental would. This is from a Franklin engine, so we believe it's a single piece casting. I guess a cylinder shop could heat barrel to get the steel sleeve out. Hopefully that will provide enough clearance to get it out. If not, I guess it gets turned into a tacky lamp. I could put it next to the other lamp I won as a "Major Award". Paul Bill Daniels wrote: "Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message ... A member of our EAA chapter has a cylinder from a Franklin 150 engine (off the engine.) The piston was pushed too far up and the top ring sprung out so it now overlaps the cylinder sleeve which locks the piston in place... The last time I heard of that happening, the guy sawed the cylinder head off the top of the cylinder with a bandsaw. In the process, he zinged the piston pretty bad, pretty much ruining everything there. My advice would be to see if there's a cylinder overhaul shop with the capacity of unscrewing the head from the barrel. If so, send it to them and see if they can rescue it. If not, make a lamp or bookend out of it. Thanks, Bob K. That'd be my advice as well. I've watched as one of these shops mounted a cylinder in their jig and very precisely and evenly heated the head until it unscrewed. I was told they keep the aluminum head and replace the steel barrel. I'd bet your friend won't be the first to show up with this problem. |
#9
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![]() "Paul Dow (Remove Caps in mail address)" wrote in message ... A member of our EAA chapter has a cylinder from a Franklin 150 engine (off the engine.) The piston was pushed too far up and the top ring sprung out so it now overlaps the cylinder sleeve which locks the piston in place. Does anyone have a technique to get the piston out? Preferably while doing the least amount of damage. (So no explosives, please!) Take an old spark plug and break out the ceramic center, then thread the steel body for a zerk fitting. Be sure both valves are closed, hook up grease gun and start pumping; you might be able to build enough pressure (grease guns are cabable of several thousand psi) to break the ring and force the piston out or even push the liner out of the one-piece cylinder/head. |
#10
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![]() Does anyone have a technique to get the piston out? Preferably while doing the least amount of damage. (So no explosives, please!) Take an old spark plug and break out the ceramic center, then thread the steel body for a zerk fitting. *Be sure both valves are closed, hook up grease gun and start pumping; you might be able to build enough pressure (grease guns are cabable of several thousand psi) to break the ring and force the piston out or even push the liner out of the one-piece cylinder/head. Adding to that idea heat the whole thing in an oven and then pack the bore with ice upon removal. Remove the piston and the steel liner as one assembly. Then renew as one would normally with a Franklin cylinder/head combo ???? Never had this problem, and never tried this fix .............. Pure speculation on my part. ================ Leon McAtee Will remember not to do the same with my Franklin :-) |
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