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To All:
By the time Whatzhiznamez Inter-Plane Winglets had crossed the Pond they found a buncha Frenchmen just waiting to pounce on them. These French fellows didn't care for 'tail feathers' nor 'hull' nor any of them other home-grown Ami Rican definitions and you could bet your beans they weren''t gonna allow ol' whatzhizhame to call inter-plane winglets Inter-Plane Winglets for damn sure. Winglets was O.K. (although the O.K. had to go) but Inter-plane? I mean, come on... Inter-PLANE? Ain' no Way they were going to allow that. Aviation was FRENCH, not American. Didn''t matter that them bicycle boys were flying two-up, graceful as a swan all over Europe and even England too. But it's best not to talk about that. They already had a form to fill out. If you wanted to fly in Europe you'd better be ready to fill out the form. And pay the fee, of course. Always a Fee when you gotta Form to filll out. Ailerons. That's what they became, once the French got their bureaucracy in gear. No mention of Winglets because, as any fool KNOWS, you can't have WINGLETS unless you've got WINGS. And there was ol' whatzhizname calling them PLANES! So I guess we showed you, eh? Didn't we? You Ami-Rican motorcycle man you, eh? Following your Bicycle Brothers with your pockets filled with Patent Attorneys. I won't even get into JOYSTICK. For some time now I've been making perfectly good joysticks outta exhaust pipe and matching pipe clamps. Heavier than hell but then you only need a couple inches of the stuff; just enough to give you enough pipe so's the thing will rotate in your muffler clamps. (What's that? Yousay I called them muffler clamps in one message an' pipe clamps in another? Okay, what's wrong with that? You obviously knew what I was talking about.) Truth is, just about anything that gets the job done is okay to use. So... what IS the job, exactly? It's to make the ailerons move, isn't it? I mean, we got rid of the shoulder frame and the hip frame and all them other methods and got it boiled down to a simple stick, once the French jumped in and told us what it was. And then we tied it to the elevator too. Again,with more help from the French. Push or pull, the stick... nobody calls it a JOYSTICK any more... push it left or right to move the ailerons... which have been defined, legally and otherwise, as a miniature WING. Push the joystick in one direction, the aileron goes Up, wing goes DOWN and the the whole damn plane starts to turn into the low wing. Lovely, graceful evolutions in the air. Need to make one. Joystick, that is. Kicking around under the bench... nothing handy comes mind. I've got a whole box of Teenie Two control sticks. Kinda cock-eyed and sensitive as hell on the elevator AND the ailerons. (Sensitivity has to do with the input-output ratios. Input has to do with where you grab the stick, whereas the output is the distance between the pivot and the rod or cable that is being acted upon. Teenie Two, the distances is less than an inch, meaning it's sensitivity is right up there. Not the kind you'd want to risk passenger's lives upon. I keep poking around, find some thin-walled SQUARE steel tubing, 3/4" on a side. Just the thing! Because I've also found the perfect stuff for bearings. It's a remnant of a kitchen cutting board, half an inch thick and about a foot long. I whizz it through the band-saw, lopping off a piece 2" wide. Find the miter gauge and lop the long piece into a stack of short pieces, 2" x 2" and smelling faintly of kitchen stuff. It's about 1630 and my back is hurting enough to kick everybody out soz I can have some time to myself. Little corner jig goes onto the drill-press table and is adjusted to make a hole... somewheres. In the corners of each piece and identical but I haven't bothered to measure anything. Dig around for some scrap; something I can cut without needing too much strength. Find some mild steel willing to get sheared. Center-line has to be 4" plus enough to bend over to give me a ninety degree bend so I can bolt it to the structure. It's going to be pretty limp so I leave room to bend the edges. start filing then take a break for chow. By the l get back to the shop I've got it pretty much laid out in my head. I use a chassis punch for the big hole and a drill for the four #10 fasteners. The sheet-metal screws are substituted for the chassis fasteners and the support brackets are mocked up on a piece of pine with the precise distance between them. That allows me to mark the total length of the part and where the aileron connector must go. The connector must be four inches long and needs to be welded so I get things all shiny bright, rig a couple of bricks, make the lower end, which is .090, weld it to the leg and do a bit of grinding to get the precise four inch length needed by the arm. Tack that then hammer on it a bit. Do another tack and everything is straight. Weld one side, then the next, then close each end. I gave the steel parts a spritz of paint then hung them to dry while I made the last pieces on the lathe. These were chunks of 3/4" aluminum plate turned to a diameter that would not interfere with the #10 fasteners securing the cutting board to the brackets. And I was all done. At least for this article :-) I still had to make the joystick itself but that was liable to take several tries, filling it with dry sand, raising it to a red heat then bending it to conform to my pattern... a piece of welding rod. And for the bearings, of course. But everyone knows how to make a bearing for a piece of square tubing, right? Right? Gotta go see what the Easter Bunny left me. -R.S.Hoover |
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#3
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A wrinkle about flying a low power Wright style design.
If you warp the left wing down, or put the left wing aileron down, which way is the plane going to turn? * Why - to the LEFT of course! (More drag = more turning effect and more wing down.) Brian W Brian, Ever fly a Wright? Ever really try that? Ever wonder why that rudder- thingie in the back has to move and not stay fixed. Or why you even need that rudder-thingie on a Wright in the first place? Go look up "well-digging". Then come tell me which way a Wright machine turns when you warp the left wing down. You should have at least two answers for me. Harry Frey Wright 1902 glider semi-pilot |
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#5
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If being a glider semi-pilot means you HAVE flown
one - or many another plane that will turn the wrong way if only ailerons or wing warping is used - I am open to correction! :-) I don't know about Wright flyers or gliders, but "normal" airplanes (according to my limited experience on Robins and Cessnas) will actually turn the proper way. That's due to the fact that once you bank the plane (by aileron), you also have to pull to compensate for the loss of lift in the vertical axis. This gives you a slight rotation of the plane around its pitch axis, and the horizontal component of lift gives you (after some time) a horizontal velocity, which, on a stable plane, will induce a force on the vertical stabilizer that makes the plane turn in the right direction. The resulting moment is usually much greater than the one due to differential drag on the ailerons. In short, an airplane (maybe more so for the "truck-like handling" planes such as Cessnas, and less so for lighter handling planes, which I've never flown) will fly well on just aileron and elevator; rudder is only needed for take-offs and landings in crosswinds. But no serious flight instructor will ever admit that ;-) Oliver |
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Oliver Arend wrote:
I don't know about Wright flyers or gliders, but "normal" airplanes (according to my limited experience on Robins and Cessnas) will actually turn the proper way... Oliver The effect in discussion is called adverse yaw. It takes design effort to get rid of it. The most popular method is called differential aileron movement: i.e. more UP than down. If I recall, that's the method used on those two popular planes. But the early planes had a more serious problem too. When they flew just above stall as they did, the wings were already at high angle of attack. If you then deflect the outboard section down, it stalls. Vividly sometimes. Modern practice is to use a little washout - i.e. lower AofA towards the tips - that makes the stall progressive. Brian W |
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