Correcting Poly-Brush mistake

I applied the first coat of Poly-Brush on a little more than half of my
fuselage (experimental homebuilt) before I realized I had not stirred the
can of Poly-Brush before using. Once the contents from the bottom were
stirred up the coating was definitely a darker shade of pink. Is this going
to be a problem? If so, should I perhaps spray an extra Poly-Brush coat
when the time comes? I suspect applying a second brush coat would leave
visible brush marks.

Not a big mistake. Brush on another thinned coat where you put it on too
thin. The pink color is to let you know when you have more or less
uniformly filled the weave. No need to spray on an extra coat. Brush
marks will all come out with the iron, which melts the vinyl-based
Poly-Brush and causes it to flow out into the weave. If you'll notice the
manual calls for using the iron as much as you can to smooth out the coat so
you don't have to do so much sanding after you've gotten the aluminum-flake
Poly-Spray on. Matter of fact judicious use of the iron gives you more
help than sanding the Poly-Spray for that nice smooth fabric job.

I'm envious of you. I enjoy covering a ragwing airplane.

"Craig Foster" wrote in message
news:RCxub.237905$HS4.2047882@attbi_s01...
I applied the first coat of Poly-Brush on a little more than half of my
fuselage (experimental homebuilt) before I realized I had not stirred the
can of Poly-Brush before using. Once the contents from the bottom were
stirred up the coating was definitely a darker shade of pink. Is this
going
to be a problem? If so, should I perhaps spray an extra Poly-Brush coat
when the time comes? I suspect applying a second brush coat would leave
visible brush marks.

WRONG! WRONG!WRONG!

Read the manual again several times. Ironing is all done before you put on
the Poly Brush. The only ironing done after the Poly Brush is to the pinked
edges of the tapes. Put that iron out in the middle of the fabric and it
will melt the Poly Brush leaving marks in it. Brush marks are leveled out by
the spray coats of Poly Brush and Poly Spray which is last.

Correct on the pink. The pink tint is only there so you can see where you
have been and is not recommended inside the cockpit unless it is painted.

"dale" wrote in message ...
WRONG! WRONG!WRONG!

You forgot to turn your gd iron down. Go watch some of the pros do it,
amateur. A high spot won't come down by spraying over it. It is done
deftly, gingerly --- not hamfistedly like you. One calibrates the iron to
soften, not to melt.


Read the manual again several times. Ironing is all done before you put on
the Poly Brush. The only ironing done after the Poly Brush is to the
pinked
edges of the tapes. Put that iron out in the middle of the fabric and it
will melt the Poly Brush leaving marks in it. Brush marks are leveled out
by
the spray coats of Poly Brush and Poly Spray which is last.

Correct on the pink. The pink tint is only there so you can see where you
have been and is not recommended inside the cockpit unless it is painted.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 21:50:08 -0600, "dale" wrote:

WRONG! WRONG!WRONG!

Read the manual again several times. Ironing is all done before you put on
the Poly Brush. The only ironing done after the Poly Brush is to the pinked
edges of the tapes. Put that iron out in the middle of the fabric and it
will melt the Poly Brush leaving marks in it. Brush marks are leveled out by
the spray coats of Poly Brush and Poly Spray which is last.

Correct on the pink. The pink tint is only there so you can see where you
have been and is not recommended inside the cockpit unless it is painted.


Dale,

I am in agreement with you. Larry's follow-up is absurd. The iron
properly used on the tapes will save many hours of sanding. And, the
Poly Fiber materials do not sand worth a ****. Above all else, keep
the iron off the open areas once the coatings have been applied. It
is obvious that Larry does not have much experience with fabric work,
or he does not have very high standards.

BTW, the stuff in the bottom of the Poly Brush can is, for the most
part, the fire retardant component. It is good to have the proper
amount on the airplane. I know for a fact that it saved an airplane
that I owned a few years ago.

I had a face to face chat with Ray Stits after that incident. He told
me that at the time he was developing the Poly Fiber process he was
also selling plans for airplanes that could be taken home (Playmate
etc.) and stored in the garage. He said that he would not provide a
covering process that would support combustion.

I have put a flame to strips of finished Ceconite removed from
airplanes (nitrate dope is used for the first coat) and I must say
that the material burns quite nicely.

O-ring Seals

"O-ring Seals" wrote in message
...


Hey, loud mouth, look at pages 52 and 53 of the Poly Fiber Manual, and then
maybe you'll learn not to open your loud mouth. The chapter is entitled
"Heat Smoothing."

You and the other idiot can retract what you have said or I'll type in the
chapter, word for word.

"dale" wrote in message ...
WRONG! WRONG!WRONG!

That's right. You A R E wrong, wrong, wrong.


Read the manual again several times.

If he read it once, that's more than you've read it.


Ironing is all done before you put on
the Poly Brush. The only ironing done after the Poly Brush is to the
pinked
edges of the tapes. Put that iron out in the middle of the fabric and it
will melt the Poly Brush leaving marks in it. Brush marks are leveled out
by
the spray coats of Poly Brush and Poly Spray which is last.

You are not reading from the Polyfiber manual, then.


Correct on the pink. The pink tint is only there so you can see where you
have been and is not recommended inside the cockpit unless it is painted.



This is another one who probably did his last cover job --- a patch on a
hangarqueen wing --- in 1950. Get thee to a manual and read pages 52 and
53 --- "Heat Smoothing."

"O-ring Seals" wrote in message
...
[blahblahblah bs snipped]
I had a face to face chat with Ray Stits after that incident.

Now THAT is impressive. He knows Ray personally. Our hero.

He told
me that at the time he was developing the Poly Fiber process he was
also selling plans for airplanes that could be taken home (Playmate
etc.) and stored in the garage. He said that he would not provide a
covering process that would support combustion.

O save us, dear jayzuss, from the hucksters. Notice when Ray sets fire --
on his videotape they get $35 for and is more a shameless and devious
commercial than anything else -- to a ribbon of doped fabric and a ribbon of
his own with PolyBrush on it, it hasn't yet been painted with aluminum flake
OR Aerothane paint, both of which can burn like hell.

The first picture I get of a Stits-covered airplane burnt into a krispy
kritter, I'm going to put it up in a binary group for display. And don't
forget the gasoline accelerant, there, dingaling.

O-wingdingaling, if you don't think vinyl (as well as the explosive aluminum
powder and polyurethane) will burn violently and outgas some vile toxins,
you ought to have your big ears pulled.


I have put a flame to strips of finished Ceconite removed from
airplanes (nitrate dope is used for the first coat) and I must say
that the material burns quite nicely.

Yes, but have you put a flame to strips of finished Stits or Polyfiber, in
order to see that it burns quite nicely?

Mr. Smith I stand by what I said. Smoothing is using the iron to smooth the
Poly Tak underneath the fabric and before any Poly Brush has been put on.
Once Poly Brush has been applied the iron is only used on the pinked edges
of the tapes.
Dale
PS Don't be so ugly.

"Larry Smith" wrote in message
...

"dale" wrote in message ...
WRONG! WRONG!WRONG!

That's right. You A R E wrong, wrong, wrong.


Read the manual again several times.

If he read it once, that's more than you've read it.


Ironing is all done before you put on
the Poly Brush. The only ironing done after the Poly Brush is to the
pinked
edges of the tapes. Put that iron out in the middle of the fabric and it
will melt the Poly Brush leaving marks in it. Brush marks are leveled
out
by
the spray coats of Poly Brush and Poly Spray which is last.

You are not reading from the Polyfiber manual, then.


Correct on the pink. The pink tint is only there so you can see where
you
have been and is not recommended inside the cockpit unless it is
painted.



This is another one who probably did his last cover job --- a patch on a
hangarqueen wing --- in 1950. Get thee to a manual and read pages 52 and
53 --- "Heat Smoothing."

On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 21:05:48 -0600, "dale" wrote:

:PS Don't be so ugly.

It's not like he has a choice.

Latchless Larry... What a maroon.