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#1
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I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a
2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. Though the lathe came with most of the tooling there was no manual and no circuit diagram anywhere. Since the relays, there are 5 of them and a transformer, cost $57 each would like to by pass that system and install a drum switch (to reverse the motor). Trouble is I cannot trace out the system without just about disassembling the whole thing.(several switches controling coolant pump, light and other electrical additions) I built a rotating phase converter and know that the motor runs just fine. I would like to find a manual that has the electrical system diagrammed. The only ID I find on the machine is "Doncho Enterprise Co. Ltd., Taipei, Taiwan, ROC." THe only other info on the tag is the serial number and "type JH-1337." My Google searches for the company have been fruitless. Grizzly has a couple of lathes that look similar. Thought maybe the rights to build were sold to someone building them for Grizzly. Grizzly says, "yours is not a Grizzly lathe." There is no manufacture date but this thing is probably vintage '60s. Any help would be appreciated. -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| *------------------------------**----* \(-o-)/ AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO. \___/ Manufacturing parts & pieces / \ for homebuilt aircraft, 0 0 TIG welding While trying to find the time to finish mine. |
#2
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"Bruce A. Frank" wrote:
I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. Though the lathe came with most of the tooling there was no manual and no circuit diagram anywhere. Since the relays, there are 5 of them and a transformer, cost $57 each would like to by pass that system and install a drum switch (to reverse the motor). Trouble is I cannot trace out the system without just about disassembling the whole thing.(several switches controling coolant pump, light and other electrical additions) I built a rotating phase converter and know that the motor runs just fine. I would like to find a manual that has the electrical system diagrammed. The only ID I find on the machine is "Doncho Enterprise Co. Ltd., Taipei, Taiwan, ROC." THe only other info on the tag is the serial number and "type JH-1337." My Google searches for the company have been fruitless. Grizzly has a couple of lathes that look similar. Thought maybe the rights to build were sold to someone building them for Grizzly. Grizzly says, "yours is not a Grizzly lathe." There is no manufacture date but this thing is probably vintage '60s. Any help would be appreciated. -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| *------------------------------**----* \(-o-)/ AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO. \___/ Manufacturing parts & pieces / \ for homebuilt aircraft, 0 0 TIG welding While trying to find the time to finish mine. Try posting on rec.crafts.metalworking---those guys do that allatime. Jerry |
#3
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Thanks Jerry, Corky suggested the same thing. I had lost that address,
but have posted there now. Jerry Wass wrote: "Bruce A. Frank" wrote: I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. Though the lathe came with most of the tooling there was no manual and no circuit diagram anywhere. Since the relays, there are 5 of them and a transformer, cost $57 each would like to by pass that system and install a drum switch (to reverse the motor). Trouble is I cannot trace out the system without just about disassembling the whole thing.(several switches controling coolant pump, light and other electrical additions) I built a rotating phase converter and know that the motor runs just fine. I would like to find a manual that has the electrical system diagrammed. The only ID I find on the machine is "Doncho Enterprise Co. Ltd., Taipei, Taiwan, ROC." THe only other info on the tag is the serial number and "type JH-1337." My Google searches for the company have been fruitless. Grizzly has a couple of lathes that look similar. Thought maybe the rights to build were sold to someone building them for Grizzly. Grizzly says, "yours is not a Grizzly lathe." There is no manufacture date but this thing is probably vintage '60s. Any help would be appreciated. -- Try posting on rec.crafts.metalworking---those guys do that allatime. Jerry -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| |
#4
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Bruce,
If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ "Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ... I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. .. .. .. |
#5
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That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am
not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct. All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks for making me focus. sidk wrote: Bruce, If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ "Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ... I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. . . . -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| |
#6
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I forgot, I did jumper the power supply directly to the motor...it does
run forward...switch two wires of the 3 phase and it runs in reverse. "Bruce A. Frank" wrote: That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct. All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks for making me focus. sidk wrote: Bruce, If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| |
#8
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Also, I thought of after I posted the above, regular circuit breakers
(the type in your home distribution panel) are really cheap (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...)and not only provide switch function but also protection. If you want a 3-phase breaker, simply gang three together. Sid That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct. All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks for making me focus. sidk wrote: Bruce, If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ "Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ... I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. . . . |
#9
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Bad idea to use 3 single phase breakers for 3 phase power as you can have
one trip out and still leave two of the motors phases powered, will let the smoke out of the motor and possibly you.. Or you can trip two of the breakers and still have voltage on the motor, this can let the smoke out of you if troubleshooting. Code requires all three phases to trip if any phase overloads. Same logic applies to 220 1 phase devices both hot leads must disconnect. Hugh m... Also, I thought of after I posted the above, regular circuit breakers (the type in your home distribution panel) are really cheap (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...)and not only provide switch function but also protection. If you want a 3-phase breaker, simply gang three together. Sid That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct. All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks for making me focus. sidk wrote: Bruce, If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ "Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ... I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. . . . |
#10
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I'll second this advice!!!
A three phase motor with one phase tripped out or dead is going to burn out very soon. It's called "single-phasing"..... John On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 21:19:48 -0600, "Hugh Prescott" wrote: Bad idea to use 3 single phase breakers for 3 phase power as you can have one trip out and still leave two of the motors phases powered, will let the smoke out of the motor and possibly you.. Or you can trip two of the breakers and still have voltage on the motor, this can let the smoke out of you if troubleshooting. Code requires all three phases to trip if any phase overloads. Same logic applies to 220 1 phase devices both hot leads must disconnect. Hugh om... Also, I thought of after I posted the above, regular circuit breakers (the type in your home distribution panel) are really cheap (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...)and not only provide switch function but also protection. If you want a 3-phase breaker, simply gang three together. Sid That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct. All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks for making me focus. sidk wrote: Bruce, If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays) which are relatively cheap. So, what is to operate? 1) the rotary converter. 2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is running. 3) Lights 4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump 5) ? whatever else....? The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump, light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half of your 230. Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic. An additional thought... Why the burned up relay?? It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring somewhere. It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then build up from there. Sid Knox Velocity N199RS Starduster N666SK KR2 N24TC W7QJQ "Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ... I have come by a lathe that has some electrical problems. The unit has a 2 hp 3 phase 220 volt motor. One of the magnetic relays was burned out when I got the lathe. I replaces the relay, turned the switch on and the brand new relay burned up also. . . . |
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