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#1
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If one were to design their own sailplane, which airfoil would be a good
choice for low drag and fairly low speed (ie, an ultralight part 103 sailplane for exampl)? In other words, is a thicker airfoil (more lift) better at slow speeds or a thinner airfoil (less drag)? Which type would give the best glide ratio with all other things being equal? -- Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Building RV-4 Gotta Fly or Gonna Die |
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Scott wrote:
If one were to design their own sailplane, which airfoil would be a good choice for low drag and fairly low speed (ie, an ultralight part 103 sailplane for exampl)? In other words, is a thicker airfoil (more lift) better at slow speeds or a thinner airfoil (less drag)? Which type would give the best glide ratio with all other things being equal? Have you read Fundamentals of Sailplane Design? That'd be a good place to start if you haven't. Join the Sailplane Homebuilder's Associaton at the same time (buy the book from them, too). Thicker and thinner don't mean much; instead, you need to be talking about the characteristics you want, such stall speeds, desired L/D at max and cruise speeds, wing loadings, construction (wood and fabric, carbon, or ?) and so on. Theennn you can start asking about the airfoil! -- ----- change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#3
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Hello Scott:
Along with Eric Greenwell's very good suggestion, here are a few other considerations. If you are designing for FAR part 103, then your weight constraints and therefore structural considerations will drive your design more than subtle aero concerns. From a practical standpoint, the thicker sections will give you greater freedom in the design process. Here are the opposite ends of the spectrum in the current state of the art for sub 155 lb. empty structures: Carbon Dragon @ 145 lbs. Root section nominally 18% at root but actually increased to 21% over a short section of the span for structural reasons. 13% tips, highly tailored aerodynamically due to large q-differential across span at very slow circling speeds. SparrowHawk at circa 153 lbs. With pre-preg carbon construction and excellent engineering, able to use relatively thin and very slippery sections for the R-numbers throughout. Not practical for most homebuilders to take this route. If you like this design approach, it is very well executed and you might consider buying one as they are reasonably priced. Best Regards, Gary Osoba Eric Greenwell wrote in message ... Scott wrote: If one were to design their own sailplane, which airfoil would be a good choice for low drag and fairly low speed (ie, an ultralight part 103 sailplane for exampl)? In other words, is a thicker airfoil (more lift) better at slow speeds or a thinner airfoil (less drag)? Which type would give the best glide ratio with all other things being equal? Have you read Fundamentals of Sailplane Design? That'd be a good place to start if you haven't. Join the Sailplane Homebuilder's Associaton at the same time (buy the book from them, too). Thicker and thinner don't mean much; instead, you need to be talking about the characteristics you want, such stall speeds, desired L/D at max and cruise speeds, wing loadings, construction (wood and fabric, carbon, or ?) and so on. Theennn you can start asking about the airfoil! |
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Earlier, "Scott" wrote:
If one were to design their own sailplane, which airfoil would be a good choice for low drag and fairly low speed... In addition to what some others have written on this topic: These days it is getting more and more rare to see a sailplane developer pull an airfoil straight out of a catalog and use it. Now that 2D and even 3D airflow analysis software has gotten more common and more affordable, most developers and designers are using custom airfoils specifically created for with their objectives in mind. What we are doing with the HP-24 kit glider wings is pretty common: we started with a catalog airfoil used on some modern racing ships and used a 2D analysis package (PANDA, I think) to tweak it slightly. However, it's not unknown for folks start with a pair of straight lines from 0,0 to 1,0 and nudge them around until they get the pressure distribution that they're looking for. As Gary Osoba else wrote, the wing thickness is generally more of a structural thing than an aerodynamic concern. More thickness gives you better stiffness/weight, since the stiffness of a beam is relative to the cube of its depth - or something thereabouts. In addition to Gary's good suggestion about the Sailplane Homebuilder's Association: there's a couple of YahooGroups forums that are good for topics like the ones you raise. There's glidertech for design/development issues, and HomeSail for construction issues. Of course, there's a lot of overlap between the two. You can contact me via email for subscription info for both. Thanks, and best regards to all Bob K. http://www.hpaircraft.com/hp-24 |
#6
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Earlier, Martin Gregorie wrote:
Is that book of interest still? It's a good and rigorous survey of the glider design process. Of course, much of it is dated. However, the general approach is still valid. The thing I like about it is that it gives insight into the thinking of Stelio Frati, who designed some of the prettiest small airplanes ever, and did it about fifty years ago. When you look at the diagrams of how to use the method of tangents to develop fuselage cross-sections, there's an embryonic slice of Falco staring out at you. BTW the site's worth a visit just to drool over the Falco, a very pretty design. Alfred Scott is my hero. Resurrecting the Falco was one of the finest and most elegant things ever done for sport aviation. Not in terms of quantity, but in quality, in Robert Pirsig's sense of the event in which subject invents and envelops object. Thanks, and best regards to all Bob K. http://www.hpaircraft.com |
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