GTAW / TIG filler material recommendations

(same as "OK Autrod 13.13",

Darn... OK TIGROD 13.13...

I found that article about welding 4130 in the
Lincoln web site.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...hrome-moly.asp

Best Regards

Patrice/C-FRSH




"Jari Kaija" a écrit dans le message de
...

Most recommended filler material for 4130N TIG weldings
seems to be: AWS ER70S-2

However. Can I use ER 100S-G (same as "OK Autrod 13.13",
what I have already... a lot..) without preheating & post-weld
heat treating?

Otherwise I need to go tomorrow to local hardware strore...

--
-Jari / OH-XJJ
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www.project-ch701.net
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I found that article about welding 4130 in the
Lincoln web site.

Had it already. I have PDF version of similar kind of article
in my web site also.Very informative article, but it doesn't resolve
my question about 13.13.

http://www.project-ch701.net/ch701_misc/FAQ4130N.pdf



--
-Jari / OH-XJJ
www.jarikaija.com
www.project-ch701.net
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from server, so, save your miserable time...)

I would stick to ER70S-2, ER70S-6, or ER80D-2. I use ER70S-2 all the
time and I like the way it flows better than ER70S-6.

On 01 Jul 2003 05:35 PM, funnyman posted the following:
I would stick to ER70S-2, ER70S-6, or ER80D-2. I use ER70S-2 all the
time and I like the way it flows better than ER70S-6.

I tried some ER70S-6 for the first time last week (TIG welding) on my
toe brake pedals and that was my experience as well. It works fine, but
the S-2 seems to leave a nicer bead. The S-6 tended to come out looking
a little like a MIG bead which makes sense because the S-6 alloy is
normally used for MIG wire. I'm perfectly happy with the performance of
either alloy and once I exhaust my supply of S-2 I will burn up the S-6
I just bought before I buy any more rod.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
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Del,

Was the rod you used copper plated? Did you remove it, the copper,
before using the rod? (polish it with Scotch Brite) I ask because almost
everyone with whom I have spoken finds the -6 produces a nicer bead and
much quieter molten puddle (than -2) when TIG welding (fewer sparks
flying contaminating the tungsten).

--
Bruce A. Frank

Del Rawlins wrote:
On 01 Jul 2003 05:35 PM, funnyman posted the following:

I would stick to ER70S-2, ER70S-6, or ER80D-2. I use ER70S-2 all the
time and I like the way it flows better than ER70S-6.


I tried some ER70S-6 for the first time last week (TIG welding) on my
toe brake pedals and that was my experience as well. It works fine, but
the S-2 seems to leave a nicer bead. The S-6 tended to come out looking
a little like a MIG bead which makes sense because the S-6 alloy is
normally used for MIG wire. I'm perfectly happy with the performance of
either alloy and once I exhaust my supply of S-2 I will burn up the S-6
I just bought before I buy any more rod.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
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"Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ...
Del,

Was the rod you used copper plated? Did you remove it, the copper,
before using the rod? (polish it with Scotch Brite) I ask because almost
everyone with whom I have spoken finds the -6 produces a nicer bead and
much quieter molten puddle (than -2) when TIG welding (fewer sparks
flying contaminating the tungsten).



I never remove the copper. Sounds like your friends aren't cleaning
the base metal very well. Since ER70S-6 has more deoxidizers it will
weld better on unclean metal. Most of the time with ER70S-2 on clean
4130 you will never see sparks or contaminates coming off. As with
any welding it will always be better to start with cleaning the metal.
Once you have clean metal 70S-2 will make a much nicer bead than
70S-6. With dirty metal 70S-6 will have a nicer bead than 70S-2.

Most wipe it with some type of de-oiler...acetone or something similar,
but the mill scale is still there as usually no bead blasting is done
before welding. Straight argon cover gas.

funnyman wrote:
"Bruce A. Frank" wrote in message ...

Del,

Was the rod you used copper plated? Did you remove it, the copper,
before using the rod? (polish it with Scotch Brite) I ask because almost
everyone with whom I have spoken finds the -6 produces a nicer bead and
much quieter molten puddle (than -2) when TIG welding (fewer sparks
flying contaminating the tungsten).




I never remove the copper. Sounds like your friends aren't cleaning
the base metal very well. Since ER70S-6 has more deoxidizers it will
weld better on unclean metal. Most of the time with ER70S-2 on clean
4130 you will never see sparks or contaminates coming off. As with
any welding it will always be better to start with cleaning the metal.
Once you have clean metal 70S-2 will make a much nicer bead than
70S-6. With dirty metal 70S-6 will have a nicer bead than 70S-2.


--
Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL
Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter"
| Publishing interesting material|
| on all aspects of alternative |
| engines and homebuilt aircraft.|

On 02 Jul 2003 07:32 PM, Bruce A. Frank posted the following:

Del Rawlins wrote:
On 02 Jul 2003 02:59 PM, Bruce A. Frank posted the following:

Del,

Was the rod you used copper plated? Did you remove it, the copper,
before using the rod? (polish it with Scotch Brite) I ask because
almost everyone with whom I have spoken finds the -6 produces a
nicer bead and much quieter molten puddle (than -2) when TIG welding (
fewer sparks flying contaminating the tungsten).

I rubbed it with steel wool but not enough to remove the copper,
which would have taken a while. Guess I need to do more
experimenting with it.

Sand paper will work just as well as Scotch Brite and may be faster.

Then again, the ER70S-2 I am using is also copper plated and has gotten
the same steel wool treatment. Next time I weld (I am cutting and
forming parts for the control stick assembly right now) I will make more
of an effort to clean the copper off the rod and see what difference (if
any) that makes. As for cleaning the base metal, I normally sand the
weld areas with emery cloth or lightly hit it with a power sander. I
have sometimes wiped the area down with acetone, but never noticed much
difference if the metal was fairly clean to begin with. If it is at all
oily I always wipe it down prior to welding.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
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