eccentric wing pin tool

Is anyone still making eccentric wing pin tools,
I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.
With my self built electric wing rigger I can do everything but that last bit.
I am making her complete one man system

Gary

Contact MM Fabrication LLC. Price is $90 including shipping. I may need the diameter of your pin if it isn't in my database.

I just noticed the .NZ email address. Shipping will be higher, but I am not sure how much. There are also customs duty and taxes to be paid by the recipient.

Op vrijdag 10 juli 2020 14:02:01 UTC+2 schreef :
Is anyone still making eccentric wing pin tools,
I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.
With my self built electric wing rigger I can do everything but that last bit.
I am making her complete one man system

Gary

https://www.cobratrailer.com/catalog...vj9uu8g8gm5fv6

I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.

Gary:
Carefully examine the surfaces of the spar butts and the sills that the spar butts slide on during assembly and see where the fiberglass is scuffed and worn from assembly. Put a good automotive wax on all of those surfaces and don't wipe it off. This works pretty well with the problem you describe but needs to be repeated every 6-8 assemblies. try it.
Roy

On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 7:43:04 PM UTC-4, Roy B. wrote:
... where the fiberglass is scuffed and worn from assembly.
Put a good automotive wax on all of those surfaces and don't wipe it off.

Or Teflon tape on both sill and butt in scuffed areas.

There are several things you can do to make the rigging easier.
1. Clean the pins on the ends of the spars and the mounting pins with 00 steel wool.
2. Clean the bearings with with a good cloth or Q-tips using a solvent until they are clean and move easily.
3. Lube all of these surfaces with a good grease.
4. As Dave suggested, install Teflon or UHMW slides where the spars slide into the fuselage.
5. Clean the spar pin holes in each spar similar to the bearings.
6. Clean and lube the spar pin carefully.

Forgot to add:
7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 8:41:40 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
Forgot to add:
7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

Lubing and cleaning, while a good thing to do, is not going to make much of a difference. The BIG deal maker/breaker is alignment - get it right and it goes together easy; get it wrong and you can have those pins dripping in lube and nothing is happening except bad words.

Tips on proper alignment:
1. Look at the root fairing how the wing is mating to the fuselage. The gap, although small, must be the same from leading to trailing edge. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap if not sure.
2. The gap MUST be the same on top and bottom.
3. Once assembled mark the position of the spar and mark its position on the rear bulkhead.
4. Note the height of the fuselage and wingtips once assembled - use marks on the wing stands to guide you. This is handy in getting the wing dihedral correct.
5. Use your finger gauge. This is your actual finger to feel for misalignment of the the spar bushings. If you feel a ridge on the top and bottom, a verticle adjustment is necessary (don't worry about the direct, just make an adjustment and see if it improves or makes things worse and correct accordingly). A ridge on the sides means the wing must be moved for and aft. A big deal is which wing to adjust - you may be tweaking the wrong wing! So, if nothing improves try the other wing.
6. A remotely adjustable wing dolly is a big help. I use the IMI electric dolly, but a purely mechanical dolly still gets the job done, just somewhat slower.

This stuff WORKS, I have done hundreds of self-assemblies successfully.

Tom

As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.