S.N.A.F.U.

So, things are going about the way they always do when it comes to
aircraft panel work...

1. Trim switch problems
As previously posted, electric trim switch dismantled, slightly
modified, and repaired. Worked fine on the ground. Test flight today
-- nothing. Works forward, not backward, just as before. After
landing I discovered that turning the yoke hard over to the right
results in the electric aft trim working again. (Kinda hard to
duplicate in flight...)

We now have an apparent intermittent wiring/solder joint problem.
Back to the drawing board.

2. JPI Temperature Probe Installation
Installed in left under-wing inspection panel, ala Jack Allison's
installation in his Arrow. This meant ripping entire left side
interior out (easy), running wires out into wing (sorta easy),
installing probe in inspection panel (easy), and inserting wire into
wiring for JPI EDM-700 (simple). It's a clean installation, much
better than the "drill-the-hole-through-the-side-of-the-fueslage"
method that JPI (and my A&P) recommends.

It also means that you have to reinstall the left side interior when
you're done -- which is a real mother-f**ker. Getting all those
little screws to go back in their (now invisible) little holes is a
sure-fire way to make you wish you'd never started. And, of course,
our EDM-700 is on its way back to California for display repair, so
the whole installation is for naught until it is returned...

3. AvTek Pulsar Installation.
I won this landing-light-blinky-thing at the Cherokee Pilots
Association (actually I won a gift certificate) last June, and am only
now getting time to install it. Opened the box and found that it only
pulses a single landing light -- and I've got two. (Three,
actually.) Called AvTek, spoke with Mike, the owner, and he's going
to send the correct unit in the mail today.

So, we've spent two days installing and repairing three items -- NONE
of which have been successfully accomplished. It's amazing how you can
almost always, with 100% certainty, count on this kind of stuff
happening whenever you dare to venture under the panel of an
airplane...

Still, I was able to throughly clean the interior with the seats out
(first time since OSH), replace a few missing/corroded screws/
fasteners, and -- after putting everything back together -- went for a
nice, uneventful test flight.

When everything comes in, we'll tackle it again...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Jay,

Regarding the trim switch, you could have the wire chafing where it
comes out of the yoke tube behind the panel. The wire comes out a few
inches from the end of the tube through a drilled hole. For some
reason, there is no grommet on the hole, and it is just a matter of time
before the wires chafe.

For the temperature probe installation, you might want to plug it into
your EDM and test it before you button everything back up. My OAT
harness has been intermittent ever since I installed it, and has now
gone dark. Mine is installed in my right wing, a few inches back from
the leading edge an close to the fresh air inlet. The wire is fished
through the fresh air duct and comes through a hold drilled right next
to the floor vent cup. Anyway, the harness problem appears to be a bad
crimp on the pins JPI put on. I had to get a pin extractor tool ($6.80
from mouser plus $5 shipping) to get the pins out, and now I've got to
cut the bad one off and crimp a new pin on ($.18 from mouser). I have
to find the right crimp tool first (new ones are ~$150). The
alternative is getting a new harness from JPI for $55, but that means
taking everything apart and fishing the wire through again.

For the side panels, there is a trick to getting the screws in. Use an
awl through the screw hole in the side panel to find the matching screw
hole in the aluminum, then push the side panel firmly against the
aluminum, get your screw ready, and then take the awl out and replace it
with the screw being careful to not move the side panel in the process.

I'm not sure about the avtek flasher, but the one I have uses an
additional circuit breaker for power, and then connects to the light
circuits downstream of the individual light switches, which also are
supposed to have their own circuit breakers. Mine is wired with a pair
of piper avionics master relays in place of the individual light
switches that are energized by the nose light circuit so that turning on
the nose light switch activates the two relays and in turn turns on the
wing lights. I used the L-R split switch that came with the skycraft
lights to replace my original landing light switch. The L side of the
switch is connected to the nose light circuit and relays. The R side of
the switch is connected to the recognition flasher circuit, which
connects to the wing tip lights on the lamp sides of the respective
relays. That way, there were no new switch cutouts (the split rocker is
the same form factor as the original piper rocker switches), and you
have only two switches to mess with in flight. Alternatively, I could
have used a center-off rocker and connected it so that one way turned on
the nose lamp circuit and relays for the wing lights, and the other
turned on the recognition flasher, which would have saved me one circuit
breaker and perhaps been a little more ergonomic (recognition flasher
switch does nothing if the landing light switch is already on).

I still haven't gotten around to cleaning my airplane since getting back
from OSH. I also still have to install the air gizmo for that 496 I
bought, which looks like it is going to involve removing the LORAN to
make it fit. I did finally get the fuel flow upgrade for my JPI
installed, and just need to get the OAT probe working again.


Jay Honeck wrote:

So, things are going about the way they always do when it comes to
aircraft panel work...

1. Trim switch problems
As previously posted, electric trim switch dismantled, slightly
modified, and repaired. Worked fine on the ground. Test flight today
-- nothing. Works forward, not backward, just as before. After
landing I discovered that turning the yoke hard over to the right
results in the electric aft trim working again. (Kinda hard to
duplicate in flight...)

We now have an apparent intermittent wiring/solder joint problem.
Back to the drawing board.

2. JPI Temperature Probe Installation
Installed in left under-wing inspection panel, ala Jack Allison's
installation in his Arrow. This meant ripping entire left side
interior out (easy), running wires out into wing (sorta easy),
installing probe in inspection panel (easy), and inserting wire into
wiring for JPI EDM-700 (simple). It's a clean installation, much
better than the "drill-the-hole-through-the-side-of-the-fueslage"
method that JPI (and my A&P) recommends.

It also means that you have to reinstall the left side interior when
you're done -- which is a real mother-f**ker. Getting all those
little screws to go back in their (now invisible) little holes is a
sure-fire way to make you wish you'd never started. And, of course,
our EDM-700 is on its way back to California for display repair, so
the whole installation is for naught until it is returned...

3. AvTek Pulsar Installation.
I won this landing-light-blinky-thing at the Cherokee Pilots
Association (actually I won a gift certificate) last June, and am only
now getting time to install it. Opened the box and found that it only
pulses a single landing light -- and I've got two. (Three,
actually.) Called AvTek, spoke with Mike, the owner, and he's going
to send the correct unit in the mail today.

So, we've spent two days installing and repairing three items -- NONE
of which have been successfully accomplished. It's amazing how you can
almost always, with 100% certainty, count on this kind of stuff
happening whenever you dare to venture under the panel of an
airplane...

Still, I was able to throughly clean the interior with the seats out
(first time since OSH), replace a few missing/corroded screws/
fasteners, and -- after putting everything back together -- went for a
nice, uneventful test flight.

When everything comes in, we'll tackle it again...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Hey Jay:

I have had my Avtek flasher for about 8 years. It was about a third the
price of the Pulslite or whatever its called competitor. I have a Maule
that has a landing light in each wing. The pulselite will flash them
alternately IF they have separate switches and separate circuits. I had to
rewire it with a split switch one for each light. Might want to ask Mike
about his recommended max bulb wattage to make the relay last longer. He
has bulbs he recommends and they are cheaper or at least comptetive to
others. My pulsar has a flash speed select (fast for day, slow for night).
It was easy to install once we got the landing lights on separate circuits.
Say Hi toMike for me. He is a good guy. He has other neat electrical stuff
on his website somewhere. Not affliated, just a satisfied customer.

Regards,

Watson


"Ray Andraka" wrote in message
...
Jay,

Regarding the trim switch, you could have the wire chafing where it comes
out of the yoke tube behind the panel. The wire comes out a few inches
from the end of the tube through a drilled hole. For some reason, there
is no grommet on the hole, and it is just a matter of time before the
wires chafe.

For the temperature probe installation, you might want to plug it into
your EDM and test it before you button everything back up. My OAT harness
has been intermittent ever since I installed it, and has now gone dark.
Mine is installed in my right wing, a few inches back from the leading
edge an close to the fresh air inlet. The wire is fished through the
fresh air duct and comes through a hold drilled right next to the floor
vent cup. Anyway, the harness problem appears to be a bad crimp on the
pins JPI put on. I had to get a pin extractor tool ($6.80 from mouser
plus $5 shipping) to get the pins out, and now I've got to cut the bad one
off and crimp a new pin on ($.18 from mouser). I have to find the right
crimp tool first (new ones are ~$150). The alternative is getting a new
harness from JPI for $55, but that means taking everything apart and
fishing the wire through again.

For the side panels, there is a trick to getting the screws in. Use an
awl through the screw hole in the side panel to find the matching screw
hole in the aluminum, then push the side panel firmly against the
aluminum, get your screw ready, and then take the awl out and replace it
with the screw being careful to not move the side panel in the process.

I'm not sure about the avtek flasher, but the one I have uses an
additional circuit breaker for power, and then connects to the light
circuits downstream of the individual light switches, which also are
supposed to have their own circuit breakers. Mine is wired with a pair of
piper avionics master relays in place of the individual light switches
that are energized by the nose light circuit so that turning on the nose
light switch activates the two relays and in turn turns on the wing
lights. I used the L-R split switch that came with the skycraft lights to
replace my original landing light switch. The L side of the switch is
connected to the nose light circuit and relays. The R side of the switch
is connected to the recognition flasher circuit, which connects to the
wing tip lights on the lamp sides of the respective relays. That way,
there were no new switch cutouts (the split rocker is the same form factor
as the original piper rocker switches), and you have only two switches to
mess with in flight. Alternatively, I could have used a center-off rocker
and connected it so that one way turned on the nose lamp circuit and
relays for the wing lights, and the other turned on the recognition
flasher, which would have saved me one circuit breaker and perhaps been a
little more ergonomic (recognition flasher switch does nothing if the
landing light switch is already on).

I still haven't gotten around to cleaning my airplane since getting back
from OSH. I also still have to install the air gizmo for that 496 I
bought, which looks like it is going to involve removing the LORAN to make
it fit. I did finally get the fuel flow upgrade for my JPI installed, and
just need to get the OAT probe working again.


Jay Honeck wrote:

So, things are going about the way they always do when it comes to
aircraft panel work...

1. Trim switch problems
As previously posted, electric trim switch dismantled, slightly
modified, and repaired. Worked fine on the ground. Test flight today
-- nothing. Works forward, not backward, just as before. After
landing I discovered that turning the yoke hard over to the right
results in the electric aft trim working again. (Kinda hard to
duplicate in flight...)

We now have an apparent intermittent wiring/solder joint problem.
Back to the drawing board.

2. JPI Temperature Probe Installation
Installed in left under-wing inspection panel, ala Jack Allison's
installation in his Arrow. This meant ripping entire left side
interior out (easy), running wires out into wing (sorta easy),
installing probe in inspection panel (easy), and inserting wire into
wiring for JPI EDM-700 (simple). It's a clean installation, much
better than the "drill-the-hole-through-the-side-of-the-fueslage"
method that JPI (and my A&P) recommends.

It also means that you have to reinstall the left side interior when
you're done -- which is a real mother-f**ker. Getting all those
little screws to go back in their (now invisible) little holes is a
sure-fire way to make you wish you'd never started. And, of course,
our EDM-700 is on its way back to California for display repair, so
the whole installation is for naught until it is returned...

3. AvTek Pulsar Installation.
I won this landing-light-blinky-thing at the Cherokee Pilots
Association (actually I won a gift certificate) last June, and am only
now getting time to install it. Opened the box and found that it only
pulses a single landing light -- and I've got two. (Three,
actually.) Called AvTek, spoke with Mike, the owner, and he's going
to send the correct unit in the mail today.

So, we've spent two days installing and repairing three items -- NONE
of which have been successfully accomplished. It's amazing how you can
almost always, with 100% certainty, count on this kind of stuff
happening whenever you dare to venture under the panel of an
airplane...

Still, I was able to throughly clean the interior with the seats out
(first time since OSH), replace a few missing/corroded screws/
fasteners, and -- after putting everything back together -- went for a
nice, uneventful test flight.

When everything comes in, we'll tackle it again...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Ray Andraka wrote:
Anyway, the harness problem appears to be a bad crimp on the pins JPI
put on. I had to get a pin extractor tool ($6.80 from mouser plus $5
shipping) to get the pins out, and now I've got to cut the bad one off
and crimp a new pin on ($.18 from mouser). I have to find the right
crimp tool first (new ones are ~$150).

That's something that has always annoyed me about connectors with loose
pins. The crimping tools are always priced for manufacturers that are
going to make a hundred crimps a week, not for repair work where you
need to make a couple of crimps a month.

It might pay to ask around locally - you might be able to find an
contract electronic assembly company, or a small local engineering shop
or manufacturer that has the official crimp tool. You then offer to
come by on Friday afternoon, drop off $150 cash and a case of beer (or
whatever), and pick up the tool. On Monday morning you return the tool
and get your $150 back.

Matt Roberds

Regarding the trim switch, you could have the wire chafing where it
comes out of the yoke tube behind the panel. The wire comes out a few
inches from the end of the tube through a drilled hole. For some
reason, there is no grommet on the hole, and it is just a matter of time
before the wires chafe.

Thanks, Ray -- I'll check that out.

For the temperature probe installation, you might want to plug it into
your EDM and test it before you button everything back up.

Great idea. JPI says they have a quick turn-around, but we'll see.
By the time everything is shipped back and forth, I'm betting on it
taking a couple of weeks to get this thing back in the panel.

For the side panels, there is a trick to getting the screws in. Use an
awl through the screw hole in the side panel to find the matching screw
hole in the aluminum, then push the side panel firmly against the
aluminum, get your screw ready, and then take the awl out and replace it
with the screw being careful to not move the side panel in the process.

I did exactly that. The toughest thing I had to do was reinstall the
seat belt, as the mounting bracket comes through a slit in my left
side panel, which is made out of a very stiff fabric-covered
plastic.

Getting that mount to come through the panel, and then inserting the
belt (with its little spacer), and then finding the hole with the bolt
(whilst going through the spacer and the bracket) required more than
two hands.

My A&P just laughed, saying "Now you know why I love owner-assisted
annuals..."

:-)

I used the L-R split switch that came with the skycraft
lights to replace my original landing light switch. The L side of the
switch is connected to the nose light circuit and relays. The R side of
the switch is connected to the recognition flasher circuit, which
connects to the wing tip lights on the lamp sides of the respective
relays.

I've got the Skycraft split switch, too -- but the AvTek flasher comes
with it's own switch, which activates the flashing/wig-wag process.
It's also got a speed control. It appears to simply wire in-line
with the landing light(s) circuit(s), although I didn't look at the
instructions to see precisely where before realizing that it was the
wrong model. I'm guessing it wires into the backside of the landing
switch, but that's gonna be a real SOB (why in hell Piper made getting
at those switches so hard is beyond me) -- so hopefully we can tap in
at the circuit breakers.

I still haven't gotten around to cleaning my airplane since getting back
from OSH.

Yeah, it's sad, but I was vacuuming up blades of Oshkosh grass. We've
been so danged busy at the inn that we've spent very few hours at our
hangar this summer -- far less than past years. Atlas is definitely
begging to be cleaned, inside and out.

I also still have to install the air gizmo for that 496 I
bought, which looks like it is going to involve removing the LORAN to
make it fit.

You'll love it, if you can find a shop to do it without involving your
FSDO. The Air Gizmo installation is one of the best things we've
done to our plane.

I did finally get the fuel flow upgrade for my JPI
installed, and just need to get the OAT probe working again.

I have the separate FS-450 fuel flow gauge in the panel, which
normally has been one of those "Boy, I wish I could add that function
to the EDM-700" kind of things (the 450 was in the panel when I bought
the plane, and I added the EDM-700 later). Usually I'd rather have
the extra panel space.

Now, of course, with the EDM-700 in a box, on its way to California,
I'm really glad to have the stand-alone gauge...

This whole thing is so danged predictable. What sounds so simple in
conversation ALWAYS seems to end up taking twice as long as
anticipated, due to one thing or another.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

I have had my Avtek flasher for about 8 years. It was about a third the
price of the Pulslite or whatever its called competitor. I have a Maule
that has a landing light in each wing. The pulselite will flash them
alternately IF they have separate switches and separate circuits. I had to
rewire it with a split switch one for each light.

Thankfully I've already got each wing light on its own switch.

Where did you mount the control box?

Might want to ask Mike
about his recommended max bulb wattage to make the relay last longer.

He says that the Q4509s I'm currently using will be just fine.

Say Hi toMike for me. He is a good guy. He has other neat electrical stuff
on his website somewhere. Not affliated, just a satisfied customer.

Glad to hear that his stuff is quality (if it's lasted 8 years, that's
pretty darned good). I've found him a pleasure to deal with.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Jay Honeck wrote:

So, things are going about the way they always do when it comes to
aircraft panel work...

snip

It also means that you have to reinstall the left side interior when
you're done -- which is a real mother-f**ker. Getting all those
little screws to go back in their (now invisible) little holes is a
sure-fire way to make you wish you'd never started. And, of course,
our EDM-700 is on its way back to California for display repair, so
the whole installation is for naught until it is returned...

snip

When everything comes in, we'll tackle it again...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


Jay, I find using a awl to locate the holes then pull the awl and insert
screw. Been working for me. What gets me is when I drop one and have the
tear the plane apart finding it.
--

Regards, Ross
C-172F 180HP
KSWI

Jay Honeck wrote:

Yeah, it's sad, but I was vacuuming up blades of Oshkosh grass. We've
been so danged busy at the inn that we've spent very few hours at our
hangar this summer -- far less than past years. Atlas is definitely
begging to be cleaned, inside and out.


Congrats on the plug in AOPA Pilot during the Catch-A-Cardinal flythrew...

Congrats on the plug in AOPA Pilot during the Catch-A-Cardinal flythrew...

Yeah, I just saw that today! If you look closely at the photo taken
on the ramp in Iowa City you can see Mary facing the camera, and me
with my back to it.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Jay, I find using a awl to locate the holes then pull the awl and insert
screw. Been working for me. What gets me is when I drop one and have the
tear the plane apart finding it.

While trying to insert it properly I dropped that damned spacer (in
the seat belt attachment bracket) BEHIND the side panel, after having
it mostly attached to the wall.

Gosh, I really enjoyed removing the panel (in order to retrieve that
spacer) and starting all over... It was good practice for the next
time I'll need to do it...

;-)
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"