0-300D cylinder and oil sump torque settings

Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...

"Darrel Toepfer" wrote in message
. ..
Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...

410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
respectively

My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC 43-13-1B.
If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a while.
Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you doin',
trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
submarine.

Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder base
on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working with.

jls wrote:
"Darrel Toepfer" wrote:

Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...

410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
respectively

My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC 43-13-1B.
If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a while.
Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you doin',
trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
submarine.

Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder base
on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working with.

Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?

We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...

Thanks again for the info...

"Darrel Toepfer" wrote in message
...
jls wrote:
"Darrel Toepfer" wrote:

Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...

410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
respectively

My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC
43-13-1B.
If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a
while.
Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you
doin',
trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
submarine.

Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder
base
on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working
with.

Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?

20 in. lbs. but only with silicone gaskets, which you should be using
because the other kind don't work. If the non-silicone I use a gasket
sealer like silicone or Hylomar and tighten gingerly until leak stops. Go
too far and they will never stop leaking.

We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...

Thanks again for the info...

Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks around the
crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that isn't
a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.

If your quick-drain valve is leaking around the threads, get a good supply
of crush washers. If around the valve itself, clean or replace. You may
be able to lap it in with some fine lapping compound, but nowadays those
quick-drains are a lot cheaper than they used to be.

Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.

jls wrote:

Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?

20 in. lbs. but only with silicone gaskets, which you should be using
because the other kind don't work. If the non-silicone I use a gasket
sealer like silicone or Hylomar and tighten gingerly until leak stops. Go
too far and they will never stop leaking.

Ordered silicone, dunno whats there yet but its probably cork. Only
fixing whats messing it up, leaving whats fine alone...

We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...

Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks around the
crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that isn't
a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.

Around 3500 on the airframe, one overhaul on the engine...

One bolt on each of 2 cylinders is sweating oil...

If your quick-drain valve is leaking around the threads, get a good supply
of crush washers. If around the valve itself, clean or replace. You may
be able to lap it in with some fine lapping compound, but nowadays those
quick-drains are a lot cheaper than they used to be.

Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.

Its not an oil burner, just a seeper... G

Thanks again...

Darrel Toepfer wrote:
jls wrote:
Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks
around the
crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that
isn't
a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.

Replacing the 4 on the accessory case as well...

Would you happen to have the replacement part number for the oil filler
cap or its gasket? Found some leakage there too...

Around 3500 on the airframe, one overhaul on the engine...

One bolt on each of 2 cylinders is sweating oil...

Found several loose cylinder bolts...

Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.

Have 6 chromed ones...