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Could I get some advice on working stainless steel and its properties?
I want to work sheet and plate to about 1/8 thickness and have found this stuff very tough in the past. How would one drill and cut it with good results in a homebuilders shop? What types of saw blades and drills work best? I do not own a metal bandsaw yet but it is probably going to happen. Can this stuff be cut with a hacksaw? Also which stainless is good for fittings and such? Thanks from Canada Bob |
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"Bob Babcock" wrote in message
om... Could I get some advice on working stainless steel and its properties? I want to work sheet and plate to about 1/8 thickness and have found this stuff very tough in the past. How would one drill and cut it with good results in a homebuilders shop? What types of saw blades and drills work best? I do not own a metal bandsaw yet but it is probably going to happen. Can this stuff be cut with a hacksaw? Also which stainless is good for fittings and such? Thanks from Canada Bob The most important thing to learn about stainless is that it work hardens instantly. Let's say that you are drilling a 1/8" hole with a typical 1/4" capacity electric drill motor. If you pull the trigger, then set the bit in the centerpuch mark and start to apply pressure, you're all done for the day, pal. You *must* use a variable speed drill, place the bit in the centerpunch mark, apply *lots* of pressure, and then *slowly* start the bit turning. It must cut into the metal with every turn. If you "skid" the bit over the metal - even once - it will work harden to what seems to be the consistancy of a diamond. Same story with a saw. You will probably get a lot of conflicting information about this and arguments about which alloy of stainless will act this way and which won't. But if you follow this procedure you won't go far wrong with any alloy stamped CRS (Corrosion Resistant Steel). Rich "Gimme another cobalt bit - this one's as dull as my _______" S |
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#5
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![]() Also keep in mind that Stainless is a much poorer conductor of heat than Carbon steel or aluminum. There will be lots of heat build up in the cut zone . This will help account for some of the problems already talked about. |
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Hi guys, Just a tip, If you want to drill holes in really hard ****
(stainless included) go buy the cheapest tungsten tip masonary drill and grind the negative rake off with a bench grinder ,(make take a while) and push hard with a drill press. I've drilled holes in saw blades, gears, case hardened axles and of course stainless steel. and people pay me to do it!!! The above is also true, once you stop cutting you start work hardening (SS) Cheers Cam (don't tell anyone..... I may have to kill ya) PS. you can also grind the sides off to get an exact hole size. |
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