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New engine!!



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 29th 04, 02:08 AM
Frode Berg
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Default New engine!!

Hi!

We just got the bill for our new engine.....*GASP**
It should be ready and mounted in a few weeks.
It's a 1968' Piper Arrow 180 hp.
Great plane!

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.

Any bad things to look for? Not run it over a speceific RPM or anything like
this?

Thanks,

Frode Berg
LN-LMR


  #2  
Old April 29th 04, 03:01 AM
BTIZ
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follow the manufactures break in recommendations..

BT

"Frode Berg" wrote in message
...
Hi!

We just got the bill for our new engine.....*GASP**
It should be ready and mounted in a few weeks.
It's a 1968' Piper Arrow 180 hp.
Great plane!

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a

newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.

Any bad things to look for? Not run it over a speceific RPM or anything

like
this?

Thanks,

Frode Berg
LN-LMR




  #3  
Old April 29th 04, 07:43 AM
A Lieberman
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Frode Berg wrote:

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.


Hi Frode,

I had the honors of breaking in my 360 AK4 Lycoming in my Sundowner.

For the first 25 hours, I ran it full throttle and full rich and flew no
higher then 2500 feet. My A&P said what ever I do, don't baby it. Run
it hard and rich for those first 25 hours.

Allen
  #4  
Old April 29th 04, 01:27 PM
Student Pilot
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higher then 2500 feet. My A&P said what ever I do, don't baby it. Run
it hard and rich for those first 25 hours.

But vary the speed a lot. What you don't want is to get the engine too hot
too soon. Load the engine by adding power (full) in short burst. This allows
parts to temporarily come in contact with each other and "mate". When
unloading power, this carries the debris from mating process away in cooling
oil. Due this somewhat in the first 25hrs, then do a break in oil change to
get rid of the metal parts floating around. Now you are good to go. What
ever you do, do not lug the engine at low speeds, this with cause excess
heat and cause engine parts to polish as opposed to mate. So no prolonged
climbs at best angle or too much "slow flight".

Richard

"A Lieberman" wrote in message
...
Frode Berg wrote:

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a

newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.


Hi Frode,

I had the honors of breaking in my 360 AK4 Lycoming in my Sundowner.

For the first 25 hours, I ran it full throttle and full rich and flew no
Allen



  #5  
Old April 29th 04, 10:12 PM
Jay Honeck
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Default

I had the honors of breaking in my 360 AK4 Lycoming in my Sundowner.

For the first 25 hours, I ran it full throttle and full rich and flew no
higher then 2500 feet. My A&P said what ever I do, don't baby it. Run
it hard and rich for those first 25 hours.


Yep, that's the same procedure we followed with out overhauled O-540 two
years ago.

The engine starts easily, runs great, and burns a quart of oil every 15
hours. It's been absolutely perfect, knock on wood.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


  #6  
Old April 29th 04, 02:20 PM
SelwayKid
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"Frode Berg" wrote in message ...
Hi!

We just got the bill for our new engine.....*GASP**
It should be ready and mounted in a few weeks.
It's a 1968' Piper Arrow 180 hp.
Great plane!

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.

Any bad things to look for? Not run it over a speceific RPM or anything like
this?

Thanks,

Frode Berg
LN-LMR

Hi Frode
I have had the opportunity of breaking in a number of new engines on
both airplanes and helicopters. The first 25 hours are critical as the
rings get seated and the cylinder walls get polished to fit as well as
other moving parts. With the break-in oil, keep in mind you are going
to have lots of minute particles as the engine wears off the ragged
(microscopic) edges which in turn act like grinding compound. Don't
hesitate to use full power for the appications such as take-off,
climb, or emergency. While at your cruise altitude change the RPM or
MP every :10 or so to a higher or lower setting and let it run at that
for :10, etc etc.
Be sure to check the oil before and after every flight to insure both
the quantity and for any chunks that may have partial numbers on them!
Go with the manufacturers recommendations in case you have to make a
complaint or get a warranty replacement. It has always seemed to me
the first 100 hours of an engines life tells the tale of the next
1000. I've had a couple engines fail in the first 100 hours (including
turbine that gave up after 23 hrs), and I've taken engines well past
the TBO with little or virtually no oil consumption by using the above
technique. Turbines of course are a different animal entirely.
All in all, religious oil and filter changes are the key to a long
running engine and reliability. The same applies to my cars and they
keep on running long after they are supposed to like the Energizer
Bunny.
As a utility pilot, I run my equipment hard in places where help is
remote if available at all, and need to depend on it to stay alive.
Best of luck
Ol Shy & Bashful
  #7  
Old May 1st 04, 09:21 AM
Roger Halstead
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On Thu, 29 Apr 2004 03:08:04 +0200, "Frode Berg"
wrote:

Hi!

We just got the bill for our new engine.....*GASP**
It should be ready and mounted in a few weeks.
It's a 1968' Piper Arrow 180 hp.
Great plane!

Is there anything we should be aware of the first few hours running a newly
installed factory overhauled engine? It's a Lycoming.

Any bad things to look for? Not run it over a speceific RPM or anything like
this?


On mine they told me to run the snot out of it.
Most of the break in was at roughly 80% and 1" over square.
No leaning the first hour or two and watch the CHTs. They told me not
to worry about pushing it unless the CHTs were high. There were only
slightly above normal. Not high at all. We used straight mineral oil
during break in.

We changed oil at 15 hours, but it still looked clean and wasn't even
down half a quart.

It never has used oil and present consumption is ... well, I don't
know. I've never had to add oil and at the 25 hour change it's barely
down enough to notice on the dip stick. Oil stays crystal clear until
about 20 hours.

However it sat a lot this past winter with a broken throttle cable.
When I fired it up I took it directly over (20 minute flight) to get
the annual done. Now I'll have to put a bunch of hours on it and try
to get an instrument competency check before P-ville.

Darn TFRs. They have one today that runs from Windsor over to Battle
creek. If I wanted to go south I'd need to go to Wisconsin first.
They're talking another next week end.

Election campaigns should be limited to 6 weeks prior to the election
with any mention prior to that being grounds for removal from the
race. Then every dig at the opponent should count as a 5% discount
from the votes they receive in the election. Course the last few
elections would have left both major candidates with negative votes
and one of the minor parties would have won.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com


Thanks,

Frode Berg
LN-LMR


 




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