Tiedown Stakes (Article in SportAv.)

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

In article ,
Jim Weir wrote:
but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
a hammer and ruining the threads.

I was looking at those plans but figuring I'd just weld the head on.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch.

I don't think you're ever supposed to get it off. Why would you? It
looks like it's only there to hold on the washer, which is only there to
give you something to pry it out by.

--
Ben Jackson

http://www.ben.com/

(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes
with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.

Scott, N0EDV
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die


Jim Weir wrote:
(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:44:21 +0100, Scott
wrote:

The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes

Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)

They held is some pretty stong winds.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.

Scott, N0EDV
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die


Jim Weir wrote:
(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

"Roger Halstead" wrote comes

Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)

They held is some pretty stong winds.

Roger Halstead

Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
spring steel.
--
Jim in NC


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On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:11:26 -0700, Jim Weir wrote:

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.


It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim I use something similar but mine uses an eighth aluminium plate of
about 6" diameter instead of the chain. I made and welded an eye in
8mm rod for the centre. has a nut welded on the back to hold it into
the plate.
3 holes about 120 degrees apart at about 4 1/2" PCD to hammer the pegs
through..

the ends of the stakes take a fair hammering and you really should
think of welding them on. good fat solid welding. waste a rod or three
making the set. mine have a blunt tapered point turned on them.

the three stakes if splayed out have incredible holding power. mine
are about a cubit long.
they can be driven into soils ranging from loams, through limestone
gravel, to solid summer baked clay with the cheapest of claw hammers.

my pegs have a loop welded to the side of the head so that I can put a
spare peg through it and screw the peg loose in the ground.
in some soils they can really take hold enough to become permanent if
you let them. I have had to use all my might on a peg as a handle
through the side loop to get them free on a few occasions.

make it better? no, the idea is sound as presented. any more effort
making them and you'll really regret losing one.

for the tiedown rope I used one with the breaking strength equal to
the aircraft empty weight. run between tiedown and aircraft attachment
a few times and it'll never break.

must admit that the simplicity of the way he approached it impressed
me.
Stealth Pilot

Thoughts?

-----------------------------------------------------

Gross over-kill.

Ever seen a bridge spike? It's a NAIL, 12" long, 3/8" diameter, typical
nail-head on one end, pointed on the other. Available from most hardware
stores. (The local Home Deepot carries them.) Cheap enough to leave behind
for the trip home.

Used with a large washer, bridge spikes are one of the few things able to get a
grip on really hard ground.

A couple of those molded black rubber bungees as gust snubbers, combined with a
hank of 1/4" poly rope and knowledge of a few basic knots, you can secure just
about anything right up to Full Gale force winds. And cheap enough to abandon
& replace as needed.

If you regularly fly into some truly wild & windy locales, buy yourself some
half-inch re-bar, cut it to 30" sections, heat it and bend the top 6" into a
hair-pin. Make as many as you need -- a dozen or so for a really windy site.
Drive those into your tie-down area leaving just the knuckle of the hair-pin
exposed. The tent may take off... with you in it... but the bird will still be
there.

I've found the most difficult tie-downs to be in sand or snow. Sand, I've used
chain attached to old car wheels. You have to dig them in; fix some driftwood
or something to the free end of the chain so you can find it again. I'll
leave the snow people to tell us the best solution there but a bridge spike
goes into frozen ground with the same ease as into a dry lake bed.

-R.S.Hoover

I thought it was brilliant. I am going to build some for my 172. So
simple, really.

Ross

Jim Weir wrote:

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

I used 7/16" rod, drilled out 1/2" nuts(to 7/16") & welded the h**l out of 'em--
actually got some 7/16" Spring steel from a spring mfg. co--nearly impossible to
bend!! for a Stinson 108.

Jim Weir wrote:

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com