Beringer Disc Brake Kit for Schemm-Hirth gliders - experience and effectiveness?

Can anyone recommend the Beringer disc brake kit for Ventus, Discus or Schemmp-Hirth gliders? I'm seriously considering retrofitting my D2A after a nearly disastrous run off the runway up at Ely ... partially due to fading brake (plenty of pilot error problems too...)

I'm especially interested in it's effectiveness to "... put the glider up on it's nose..." in cases of an emergency stop. Also, any issues or procedures for infield tire replacements.

Walt Rogers WX

At 20:29 14 October 2017, WaltWX wrote:
Can anyone recommend the Beringer disc brake kit for
Ventus, Discus or
Sche=
mmp-Hirth gliders? I'm seriously considering retrofitting
my D2A after a
ne=
arly disastrous run off the runway up at Ely ... partially due
to fading
br=
ake (plenty of pilot error problems too...)

I'm especially interested in it's effectiveness to "... put the
glider up
o=
n it's nose..." in cases of an emergency stop. Also, any
issues or
procedur=
es for infield tire replacements.

Walt Rogers WX

Not quite on topic but I have a Beringer disk brake (standard
fit on the Antares 20E). The engineering is excellent, a joy to
behold and to work on, no problem with "on field"
maintenance, no special tools required. Factory is good to
deal with too. I'd assume their kit for SH gliders will be to
the same high standard. The only thing to remember is that
it apparently takes about 14 landings, using the brake
gently, to "bed-in" new disk/pads! This might be a problem if
you have to land-out before you've done 14 on-airfield
landings? Basically I'd recommend them.
Dave Walsh

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 4:29:58 PM UTC-4, WaltWX wrote:
Can anyone recommend the Beringer disc brake kit...

Hi Walt - I also have the Beringer brake on Antares.
Biggest problem is it is too effective; despite limiter I once
managed to flat-spot the tire landing with the spoilers full aft.

Check the actuation in the kit for SH: no stretchy Bowden cables!!
IIRC its an on-tick master which should be fine.

Also note changing the (tubeless) tire is difficult in the field;
best to use the (inexpensive) tool from Beringer and watch the
fiddly O-rings.

Super high quality, great company to work with.

Hope that helps!
See ya, Dave

I have a Beringer wheel on a JS1 and it is a nice piece of kit and has worked and braked fine however, having had my eyes opened by helping a colleague to change the tyre on a colleague's Antares, I wouldn't get one again. If the tyre gets damaged and needs replaced you need to source the expensive 10 ply tubeless aviation tyre and need to have the tyre changing kit (plywood frames + metal spacer to compress the tyre) + lube + new O ring kit. I recently bought all that to take on an expedition to South Africa at total cost in UK over £350 and it took a few weeks to source separately. Without it if I burst a tyre I reckoned I would be stuck on the ground for a long time.

It's fine if you are aware of those aspects and have spares available or can wait to get them if a problem arises.

I would opt for a Tost Penta while which is lighter than standard Tost wheel system (but heavier than a Beringer) and has a hydraulic disc brake but takes normal tubed tyres.

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:31:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I have a Beringer wheel on a JS1 and it is a nice piece of kit and has
worked and braked fine however, having had my eyes opened by helping a
colleague to change the tyre on a colleague's Antares, I wouldn't get one
again. If the tyre gets damaged and needs replaced you need to source the
expensive 10 ply tubeless aviation tyre and need to have the tyre changing
kit (plywood frames + metal spacer to compress the tyre) + lube + new O
ring kit. I recently bought all that to take on an expedition to South
Africa at total cost in UK over £350 and it took a few weeks to source
separately. Without it if I burst a tyre I reckoned I would be stuck
on the ground for a long time.

I recommend a spare wheel with mounted tire; makes a simple swap
quick and easy (I travel with such). These tubeless tires are much less
likely to have a problem then tubed types, but again a field repair is
troublesome. Anyway, I highly recommend the Beringer product.

Hope that helps!
Walt, give me a ring if any further questions,
Best Regards, Dave

A full spare Beringer wheel with mounted tyre as an essential? Seriously? At their prices? In the real world when there is an alternative option to get a disk brake it makes no sense to me. The Beringer wheel does look really cool 'thougn.

On Sunday, October 15, 2017 at 5:46:43 AM UTC-4, wrote:
A full spare Beringer wheel with mounted tyre as an essential? Seriously?

If one has a flat at a contest grid, changing the tire would take too long.
Undoing the axle, caliper, and disc and swapping the mounted tire/rim is
relatively painless. Similarly, have a spare mounted tailwheel...

The tubeless tire is quite resilient, but Texas thorns are impressive too.

If you're not too concerned about missing a day, no spare required ;-)

See ya, Dave

Is there a Cleveland wheel, disk, and caliper that would work? They're
used all over general aviation.Â* I don't know for sure about the wheels
and disks, but my Stemme uses Cleveland calipers.Â* I'll be replacing the
pads next week for under $50 for four pads.

On 10/14/2017 4:31 PM, wrote:
I have a Beringer wheel on a JS1 and it is a nice piece of kit and has worked and braked fine however, having had my eyes opened by helping a colleague to change the tyre on a colleague's Antares, I wouldn't get one again. If the tyre gets damaged and needs replaced you need to source the expensive 10 ply tubeless aviation tyre and need to have the tyre changing kit (plywood frames + metal spacer to compress the tyre) + lube + new O ring kit. I recently bought all that to take on an expedition to South Africa at total cost in UK over £350 and it took a few weeks to source separately. Without it if I burst a tyre I reckoned I would be stuck on the ground for a long time.

It's fine if you are aware of those aspects and have spares available or can wait to get them if a problem arises.

I would opt for a Tost Penta while which is lighter than standard Tost wheel system (but heavier than a Beringer) and has a hydraulic disc brake but takes normal tubed tyres.


--
Dan, 5J

On Sunday, October 15, 2017 at 10:26:09 AM UTC-4, Dan Marotta wrote:
Is there a Cleveland wheel, disk, and caliper that would work? They're
used all over general aviation.Â* I don't know for sure about the wheels
and disks, but my Stemme uses Cleveland calipers.Â* I'll be replacing the
pads next week for under $50 for four pads.

On 10/14/2017 4:31 PM, wrote:
I have a Beringer wheel on a JS1 and it is a nice piece of kit and has worked and braked fine however, having had my eyes opened by helping a colleague to change the tyre on a colleague's Antares, I wouldn't get one again.. If the tyre gets damaged and needs replaced you need to source the expensive 10 ply tubeless aviation tyre and need to have the tyre changing kit (plywood frames + metal spacer to compress the tyre) + lube + new O ring kit.. I recently bought all that to take on an expedition to South Africa at total cost in UK over £350 and it took a few weeks to source separately.. Without it if I burst a tyre I reckoned I would be stuck on the ground for a long time.

It's fine if you are aware of those aspects and have spares available or can wait to get them if a problem arises.

I would opt for a Tost Penta while which is lighter than standard Tost wheel system (but heavier than a Beringer) and has a hydraulic disc brake but takes normal tubed tyres.


--
Dan, 5J

Possibly, but someone has to engineer the conversion, produce and supply parts and do the required work to generate "approved data", commonly done by STC.
Much better to pay for someone else to do this work.
UH

I installed the Beringer in my Pegasus and could not be happier with it. Excellent engineering and workmanship. Installation was easy. EASA approval for the logbook means no hassles with the FAA or an A&P or IA.

It has a pressure limiter (Think of it as antilock braking) so it won't actually stand the glider on its nose at any speed, but watch out as you get slow! I have rotated over until the nose hit the ground as the speed went to zero. And then the tail slams down and your buddies laugh at you.

Stopping distance is MUCH improved over the OEM drum brake or a Tost drum. Highly recommended.

No input on tire replacement.