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#1
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I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider
electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. |
#2
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On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote:
I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. I'll be at the club this Saturday (AM LPA duty) if the airfield is dry enough to be usable. We can talk then if that suits you and I can bring my panel up as well if you'd like to look at it. When I got my Libelle, I rebuilt its panel so that: - The panel is easy to remove from the glider. - It connects to the power lead from the battery via an XLR plug. The radio-related connections to a PTT on the stick and mic + speaker on the cockpit sidewall use small round connectors with retaining screw rings. The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying connector to the built-in glider antenna cable. Lastly, I use a quick-disconnect on the pneumatics (static, TE, pitot). - I used XLR connectors for all main power connections. - I fitted quick-blow fuses at the battery and at the panel. - Everything in the panel that uses power has connectors (D-9 or D-15) so that any instrument can be removed without cutting wires or (un)soldering. - all interconnects and the 12v-5v converter, which powers the Medion PNA that runs LK8000, are inside a small metal box with ferrites on the power lead for the PNA. - once all instruments are out, the remaining wiring can also be removed without cutting wires or unsoldering. - NO BARE CONTACTS visible. The ASW-20 I used to have was a nightmare behind the panel, with all connectors soldered onto a couple of tag strips which were not easily removable, had no insulation whatever and were was not labelled. There were no fuses on the panel. I learned what not to do from that and got some better ideas, especially having an interconnection box from looking at Alan Head's neat wiring in his glider. -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org |
#3
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At 11:32 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote: I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. Snip The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying connector to the built-in glider antenna cable. I would argue very much against the use of Belling-Lee connectors. For a start they are not Moisture-Proof and moisture between inner and outer conductors gives ****-poor performance. Use BNC (or TNC) antenna connectors assuming your cable is UR43 or similar. But whatever you use, it must provide an air-tight seal, connected or not. |
#4
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On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:
At 11:32 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote: On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote: I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. Snip The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying connector to the built-in glider antenna cable. I would argue very much against the use of Belling-Lee connectors. For a start they are not Moisture-Proof and moisture between inner and outer conductors gives ****-poor performance. Use BNC (or TNC) antenna connectors assuming your cable is UR43 or similar. But whatever you use, it must provide an air-tight seal, connected or not. I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the more so as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the radio end. This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work OK, and so it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because otherwise the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to slide out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio. I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original cable is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm not keen on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no better electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not least, I don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either. -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org |
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At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote: . I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the more so as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the radio end. This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work OK, and so it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because otherwise the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to slide out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio. I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original cable is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm not keen on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no better electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not least, I don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either. -- If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply wrap it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be totally waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to disconnect it. Ben. |
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On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote:
At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote: On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote: . I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the more so as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the radio end. This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work OK, and so it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because otherwise the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to slide out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio. I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original cable is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm not keen on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no better electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not least, I don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either. -- If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply wrap it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be totally waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to disconnect it. Ben. Sounds good to me. Thanks. -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org |
#7
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On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 5:30:05 AM UTC-5, Colin Roney wrote:
I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. The best I've seen is John DeRosa's http://aviation.derosaweb.net/presentations/#wiring . A lot of other great content on his site. Dan |
#8
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![]() ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. Perhaps not an introduction, but reading selected sections of AC43.13 -1 and -2 is a fair knowledge base. I'd also second John DeRosa's web site. |
#9
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On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:30:05 AM UTC-8, Colin Roney wrote:
I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand the subject. The FAA has several aviation maintenance technician handbooks that are excellent and, better yet, they're FREE: https://www.faa.gov/regulations_poli...uals/aircraft/ Ch. 12 of the general handbook and Ch. 9 of Vol. 1 cover electrical subjects. Tom |
#10
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Thanks for pointing to my presentation on wiring at http://aviation.derosaweb.net/presentations/#wiring. Please let me know if there are corrections to be made (and there are ALL-WAYS corrections to be made).
Also, not to toot my own horn too loudly, but I will be speaking on this topic at the 2020 SSA Convention in Little Rock, Arkansas on Saturday, Feb 22 at 1:30PM in Ballroom B. I really don't want to find myself speaking only to the hotel security staff so I truly hope to see and meet all of you there! - John DeRosa OHM Ω |
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