Canopy tinting

Question: Is it possible to tint a canopy like a car, for example, using automotive window tinting material? I know some canopies are tinted a bluish color, but what about a dark black tint?

Thanks,

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 8:49:26 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Question: Is it possible to tint a canopy like a car, for example, using automotive window tinting material? I know some canopies are tinted a bluish color, but what about a dark black tint?

Thanks,

Paul,

When I first bought a Stemme, I put one of those electrostatic cling, dark plastic tint panels above my head. Then rolled it out into the sun. When I compared the temperature differential between tinted area and clear. The delta was rising rapidly. I removed the tint, figuring it wasn't worth the risk of having a stress cracked canopy.

I think Mark Mocho has a dark tinted canopy.

R,
Chris

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 5:49:26 AM UTC+2, Paul wrote:
Question: Is it possible to tint a canopy like a car, for example, using automotive window tinting material? I know some canopies are tinted a bluish color, but what about a dark black tint?

Thanks,

It's poorly advertised but Mecaplex offers an IR-blocking tint which I've ordered after some hassle.
As a fraction of light blocked:
Colour / Visible / IR
Standard grey / 76% / 74%
IR blocking grey / 77% / 47%
Blue / 78% / 78%

Sunlight is about 45/55 visible/IR(?), so my napkin math suggests assuming 1000W/sqm:

(450 * 0.76) + (550 * 0.74) = 749W
(450 * 0.77) + (550 * 0.47) = 605W
- ~25% cooler than typical tinted for no loss in visibility.

I don't know what fraction of either is blocked by an untinted canopy in comparison? Approximately 0% or more?

Yes, I have a dark tinted canopy. I believe it came from Thermotec (Roy Poquette, now deceased). It is noticeably cooler on a hot summer day (~10-15 degrees F). But it is way colder on a freezing day. As a result, I don't fly winter wave as much as I used to.

As far as adding the plastic film to a plastic canopy, you better do some experimentation on something other than your expensive canopy. Most tinting shops use a heat gun to activate the adhesive and make the flat film conform to contours. Car windows generally have a relatively gentle curvature, well within the capability of the film to stretch or shrink. I don't think the film would do too well on the pronounced compound curves of a canopy, and the heat necessary will probably deform the acrylic. And then you will have to buy a new canopy. Not to worry- you can get the new one tinted.

There is one aircraft (T-34 Mentor) here at Moriarty with a canopy that had the film applied, but there are a number of seams where the film had to be cut and overlapped. It looks pretty good, but the seams are pretty obvious.. Fortunately, the T-34 canopy panels do not have as much curvature as a sailplane canopy, so there aren't too many and most are unobtrusive to the pilot's sightline.

There are also spray-on tint products, but I don't think they are a good idea either. They are designed to be sprayed on glass, and the formulation and spray propellants in the can might damage the acrylic canopy. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube, and none of the testers were particularly impressed. About the highest recommendation was, "Well, I don't absolutely HATE it, but..."

Even the lighter grey and blue tints are too dark and can cause significant heat build up. I tried some at Hobbs a few years ago because my canopy is clear. Took it off right away. If you search the Soaring Archives, I believe Guy Byars wrote and article 20 years or so ago about using an orange tint to help block UV and heat.

When I replaced my ventus canopy I enquired about two things UV blockage and tint. They, the factory, answered both tinted and untinted are formulated to block 95% UV just a little less 99% that is glass. So I opted for the untinted for the reasons stated in previous posts.

CH

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 10:50:12 AM UTC-4, Tim Taylor wrote:
Even the lighter grey and blue tints are too dark and can cause significant heat build up. I tried some at Hobbs a few years ago because my canopy is clear. Took it off right away. If you search the Soaring Archives, I believe Guy Byars wrote and article 20 years or so ago about using an orange tint to help block UV and heat.

Indeed I did write such an article. I had hoped it had been forgotten.

Applying adhesive films to a Plexiglas canopy is a bad idea. It will ruin the canopy. The films won't stretch enough for the required contours. I got around this by taping strips of a special UV film to the canopy. It worked OK for experimentation, but once that was done I removed it. No matter how carefully you apply them, they will ALWAYS wrinkle and produce distorted reflections. Also dirt and bugs will find a way to get in-between them forcing a reapplication.

I did further experiments by putting films on flat pieces of Plexiglas, like for sun shade panels in power planes. They went on great, and looked great for a few days, then they always developed bubbles and blisters. That was due to the Plexiglas being slightly porous and also venting gas over time.

The spray on products will also ruin your canopy. The products I tested were made for glass and immediately rendered my test Plexiglas samples completely opaque.

You have to ask the bigger question about exactly "WHY" you want to do this.. What problem are you looking to solve? Temperature? UV exposure? I have found the best solution for both these issues is to leave the canopy alone and wear protective clothing. Long sleeves, gloves, hats with face covers... etc.

Guy Byars

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 2:26:27 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 5:49:26 AM UTC+2, Paul wrote:
Question: Is it possible to tint a canopy like a car, for example, using automotive window tinting material? I know some canopies are tinted a bluish color, but what about a dark black tint?

Thanks,

It's poorly advertised but Mecaplex offers an IR-blocking tint which I've ordered after some hassle.
As a fraction of light blocked:
Colour / Visible / IR
Standard grey / 76% / 74%
IR blocking grey / 77% / 47%
Blue / 78% / 78%

Sunlight is about 45/55 visible/IR(?), so my napkin math suggests assuming 1000W/sqm:

(450 * 0.76) + (550 * 0.74) = 749W
(450 * 0.77) + (550 * 0.47) = 605W
- ~25% cooler than typical tinted for no loss in visibility.

I don't know what fraction of either is blocked by an untinted canopy in comparison? Approximately 0% or more?

You don't need an IR blocking tint as acrylic blocks UV all by itself:

https://www.gsoptics.com/transmission-curves/