Polisher/buffer selection

I've browsed the old discussions on gelcoat maintenance to learn what
I can before developing a maintenance routine of my own, for my
recently acquired V2C. One thing not yet clear to me is the best way to
use/apply 3M's Finesse-It II, which seems to be the consensus
cleaner/polisher compound: With a high speed (~3000 rpm) polisher, or
something slower? With random orbit or fixed rotary? (Does Finesse-It
II require the generation of heat to do its thing?)

There seems to be a broad range of prices (from ~$30 for a Ryobi 10"
orbital polisher at Home Depot, to $190 for a DeWalt DW849 polisher,
mail order), so this is an investment I want to get right the first
time.

Advance thanks

~ted/2NO

At 19:54 22 November 2005,
wrote:
I've browsed the old discussions on gelcoat maintenance
to learn what
I can before developing a maintenance routine of my
own, for my
recently acquired V2C. One thing not yet clear to me
is the best way to
use/apply 3M's Finesse-It II, which seems to be the
consensus
cleaner/polisher compound: With a high speed (~3000
rpm) polisher, or
something slower? With random orbit or fixed rotary?
(Does Finesse-It
II require the generation of heat to do its thing?)

There seems to be a broad range of prices (from ~$30
for a Ryobi 10'
orbital polisher at Home Depot, to $190 for a DeWalt
DW849 polisher,
mail order), so this is an investment I want to get
right the first
time.

Advance thanks

~ted/2NO



Orbital machines are for polishing wax. For any buffing
compound (cutting or finishing) you need a buffer made
for the job and the good ones are not cheap. About
1750rpm and a 8 inch foam pad works well. Use two pads,
one for cutting and one for finishing (3M's Finesse-It).

Gary,

Can you help me with some specifics. You said "Orbital machines are for
polishing wax". But if my notes are correct, polishing and waxing are
two different exercises, one preparing the surface and the other
protecting it. Can you clarify?

Also, what is buffing? What is cutting? What's the difference between a
buffer and polisher? 1750rpm and 8 in foam pads on what type or brand
of machine? I see 6, 7, 8, and 10 inch pads; can typical machines
handle multiple pad sizes?

I remember a little less than two years ago going through a state of
careful study mixed with terminal confusion when I was learning about
flight computers, loggers and electric varios. This is déjà vu!

~ted

Buffing and polishing is done with the same machine I mentioned earlier
The Buffing compound will do just fine after 600 grid.
I used successfully Aqua Buff 1000 and 2000 in succession.
Results are just great.
It is made by Hawk Eye Industries Inc. As the name implies it is water based
and has no silicones or solvents in it.
By the way all is done with the same wool pad. It is a piece of cake.
Udo

Can you help me with some specifics. You said "Orbital machines are for
polishing wax". But if my notes are correct, polishing and waxing are
two different exercises, one preparing the surface and the other
protecting it. Can you clarify?

Also, what is buffing? What is cutting? What's the difference between a
buffer and polisher? 1750rpm and 8 in foam pads on what type or brand
of machine? I see 6, 7, 8, and 10 inch pads; can typical machines
handle multiple pad sizes?

I remember a little less than two years ago going through a state of
careful study mixed with terminal confusion when I was learning about
flight computers, loggers and electric varios. This is déjà vu!

~ted

I went to an Automotive Finish store and they were quite helpful with
buffers and such. I bought a variable speed 750 ~ 3000 rpm of
questionable lineage, but I figured using it 2 or three times a year I
would do just fine and in my 3rd year it has been just that. I think I
paid 110 US clams. I made up for it in accessories though. You will buy
a soft rubber disk that attaches to the buffer. It's face has velcro
"hooks" that will provide the surface for whatever foam or wool pads
you plan to attach. The pad as the "loops" of the velcro. I works well,
velcro is magic.

Here is a link for some auto equip that has pictures of the pads and
such.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/buffers.html

You can go on 3M's site, but it is quite cumbersome. Just google foam
compound pad 3M and you will find all sorts of places and pictures.

Remember that you are polishing plastic, not paint. Keep the rpms down
below 2000 and keep moving or you will heat things up, and that is VERY
bad.

After polishing with the perfect it, make sure you get all the grit off
by going over it with a cloth by hand. After that, I use the WX block
and apply it by hand, then use the wool pad with the buffer to knock
off the haze and WALLAH. You will need sunglasses to rig, and it will
last a good season. I don't recommend using the perfect it too
frequently, not even yearly. It is a rubbing compound, so every time
you use it you are taking off material. Do it once, and keep a good wax
on it and that is all you will need if you keep up the wax. I believe
there is a Marine 3M product with little or no silicone that is similar
to WX block, but I can't seem to run into it and WX block is only a
phone call away.

One other thing. You will sling it everywhere, so don't do this in a
tuxedo or around anything that won't like dried compound on it. Don't
get it on your canopy, and if you do, get it off with a wet cloth
before it dries so you don't scratch it. I had the wing next to the
fuselage first time- I found out the hard way.

Oh. Do your ailerons by hand, don't even think about it.

Good Luck

Joe Flores Atlanta GA



wrote:
Gary,

Can you help me with some specifics. You said "Orbital machines are for
polishing wax". But if my notes are correct, polishing and waxing are
two different exercises, one preparing the surface and the other
protecting it. Can you clarify?

Also, what is buffing? What is cutting? What's the difference between a
buffer and polisher? 1750rpm and 8 in foam pads on what type or brand
of machine? I see 6, 7, 8, and 10 inch pads; can typical machines
handle multiple pad sizes?

I remember a little less than two years ago going through a state of
careful study mixed with terminal confusion when I was learning about
flight computers, loggers and electric varios. This is déjà vu!

~ted

At 21:24 22 November 2005,
wrote:
Gary,

Can you help me with some specifics. You said 'Orbital
machines are for
polishing wax'. But if my notes are correct, polishing
and waxing are
two different exercises, one preparing the surface
and the other
protecting it. Can you clarify?

Also, what is buffing? What is cutting? What's the
difference between a
buffer and polisher? 1750rpm and 8 in foam pads on
what type or brand
of machine? I see 6, 7, 8, and 10 inch pads; can typical
machines
handle multiple pad sizes?

I remember a little less than two years ago going through
a state of
careful study mixed with terminal confusion when I
was learning about
flight computers, loggers and electric varios. This
is d=E9j=E0 vu!

~ted


Sorry for the confusion. The terms often get used interchangeably.
Orbital polishers are what you would typically use
for applying and/or polishing an automotive type of
wax although I find it just as easy to do the waxing
by hand.
Buffing is a much more aggressive way to finish paint
and/or gel coat. Cutting refers to the use of stronger
compounds that you would typically use after the final
wet sanding step. It is the step between sanding and
buffing with super fine compounds like 3M's Finesse-It.
What you start with needs to be determined by the condition
of the existing finish. Plain wax will not remove any
imperfections in gel coat so for very slight imperfections
you would first try finesse-It and only move into more
aggressive cutting compounds if needed. You obviously
want to remove no more gel coat in the process than
absolutely necessary. Wax would be applied after final
buffing.

For orbital polishing it pays to invest in a quality polisher/sander.
The key is a "wide adjustable rpm's range" and power.
Mine has a no step range of 750 to 3500 rpm
I invested in a professional Black & Decker unit some 10 years ago .
At the time it was a lot of money. Now that most of this stuff is made in
China
it should be considerably less.
You must avoid heat built up at all cost. Luke warm to the touch is OK.
If too much heat is generated the gel coat will bubble
Udo

There seems to be a broad range of prices (from ~$30 for a Ryobi 10"
orbital polisher at Home Depot, to $190 for a DeWalt DW849 polisher,
mail order), so this is an investment I want to get right the first
time.

Correction I mean "none orbital"

"Udo Rumpf" wrote in message
. ..
For orbital polishing it pays to invest in a quality polisher/sander.
The key is a "wide adjustable rpm's range" and power.
Mine has a no step range of 750 to 3500 rpm
I invested in a professional Black & Decker unit some 10 years ago .
At the time it was a lot of money. Now that most of this stuff is made in
China
it should be considerably less.
You must avoid heat built up at all cost. Luke warm to the touch is OK.
If too much heat is generated the gel coat will bubble
Udo

There seems to be a broad range of prices (from ~$30 for a Ryobi 10"
orbital polisher at Home Depot, to $190 for a DeWalt DW849 polisher,
mail order), so this is an investment I want to get right the first
time.

A non orbital polisher is available at automotive parts stores, like Pep
Boys here in New Hampshire, for about $50. Check out Aqua-Buff 2000 for
your polishing compound if your surface is not too bad:
http://www.duratec1.com/dp17-18.html

Bob

wrote in message
ups.com...

There seems to be a broad range of prices (from ~$30 for a Ryobi 10"
orbital polisher at Home Depot, to $190 for a DeWalt DW849 polisher,
mail order), so this is an investment I want to get right the first
time.

Advance thanks

~ted/2NO

Jeez, Tuno, it's practically brand new! Just lovingly apply something
like Wx Block/Wx Seal - by hand, so you can really feel the beauty of
the glider - and enjoy!

Less chance of ripping off seals that way, too!

66