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#1
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If I want to maintain a 12 volt 7amp/h Battery with a solar cell panel
what rating would I need during flight, if after 4 hrs I wanted to have a usable, not full, charge in my 12 Volt battery. Right now, my as good as new battery is useless after 4 hours. and what size would the panel be? Udo |
#2
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just did a search and I think I got it covered, still if some with
experience would like to comment please do. Udo "Udo Rumpf" wrote in message . .. If I want to maintain a 12 volt 7amp/h Battery with a solar cell panel what rating would I need during flight, if after 4 hrs I wanted to have a usable, not full, charge in my 12 Volt battery. Right now, my as good as new battery is useless after 4 hours. and what size would the panel be? Udo |
#3
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Udo,
When our Club's Orion arrived it apparently chewed through batteries at a high rate. After some time, we found that the spec sheet for the diode installed to protect against reverse polarity had a huge 1.2V drop across it. As a result, the charger wasn't charging to anywhere near full capacity because the battery only saw 12.6V when the charger saw 13.8V. Accordingly, it appeared as though the instruments were drawing much more current than they were. It took quite a while to find the real problem. Does this fit your case? In the course of troubleshooting, we also found the interesting fact that the cheap $20 SLA chargers (usually a sealed black plastic box from China) have target voltages which varied from 13.3V to 15.8V for the sample we tested. 3 out of 5 were around 15V. My DG has a factory fitted diode in the system with a 0.3V drop. The manual specifies that a charger charging to 14.1V is needed to charge the batteries completely. I suspect that a number of the debates on batteries on this forum are related to diode voltage drops. My electronic guru pointed out that ALL diodes had a forward voltage drop and some are quite large. Graeme Cant Udo Rumpf wrote: If I want to maintain a 12 volt 7amp/h Battery with a solar cell panel what rating would I need during flight, if after 4 hrs I wanted to have a usable, not full, charge in my 12 Volt battery. Right now, my as good as new battery is useless after 4 hours. and what size would the panel be? Udo |
#4
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To reduce voltage drop from a charger, when a diode is inserted, the diode
should be a shottky type diode. If 3 amps maximum current is sufficient, a 1N5822 will work fine. Those diodes are available at Radio Shack. Voltage drop is about .3 volts. In many cases, a "protection" diode is not needed when charging a system. They simply prevent current from going the wrong direction when the charger is not connected. Solar panels may or may not require them. Many circuits show a diode in series with a solar charging panel. The theory is that it prevents current from reversing direction during darkness. In many cases, the diode is not necessary and the instruction books are guilty of simply copying a circuit without understanding it. The reason diodes are often not necessary in solar panel charging systems is that the panel itself is a diode. I always check with a ma meter, just to make sure. I installed a 100 ma (.1 amp) panel on a friend's motorglider (no electrical charging system or starter) and it has charged the battery for over a year with no problem. He is an occasional user and not a contester, nor does he fly many hours at a time. If you consider a 12 volt storage battery as being fully charged at about 14.2 volts and unusable for your purposes at 12 volts, you can consider the stored power available pretty much as a straight line with 14.2 as 100% and 12 as 0 %. That means that when the voltage is 13.1 volts, you have 50% power available. Batteries, both rechargeable and non-rechargeable may expect the voltage to go below 12 volts to achieve the rated amp hours, so if 12 is your minimum, you may need to de-rate your battery. The manufacturer should have a graph showing the actual capacity available with the maximum and minimum voltage you have in your electrical system. Colin |
#5
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In many cases, a "protection" diode is not needed when charging a system.
They simply prevent current from going the wrong direction when the charger is not connected. Not connected to the AC power that is. When the charger is not connected to the battery, current would not flow because there is no completed circuit. Still early. Colin |
#6
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"Udo Rumpf" wrote in message
: If I want to maintain a 12 volt 7amp/h Battery with a solar cell panel what rating would I need during flight, if after 4 hrs I wanted to have a usable, not full, charge in my 12 Volt battery. Right now, my as good as new battery is useless after 4 hours. and what size would the panel be? Udo Udo, Most battery manufacturers consider their battery to be depleted at around 10-10.5 volts. I usually switch to my secondary battery when the primary depletes to around 11.2 - 11.5V. I also agree with other posters here that unless you have a transponder or something you should not be drawing anywhere near 1.1 amps typically. In situ measurements may be called for. Larry |
#7
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Although I have never measured it, I recall the average current drain for my
Becker transonder is only a couple hundred ma. The reason is that only pulses are sent out and the average power consumed is pretty low. Colin |
#8
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COLIN LAMB wrote:
Although I have never measured it, I recall the average current drain for my Becker transonder is only a couple hundred ma. The reason is that only pulses are sent out and the average power consumed is pretty low. Not everyone has (or can afford) a Becker transponder. A Terra will happily consume several times that amount. And, try measuring the drain from the encoder at altitude, particularly if it's one with a heater... Marc |
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