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#1
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I have a v2Cx with 4 lift pins where the wings connect to the fuselage.
These get cleaned and greased with white grease on each assembly. I'm noticing that the grease under the lift bearings gets squeezed out in flight. (Looks like maybe metal to metal contact.) Is there a preferred grease to use there. Maybe something with a graphite or moly fill? |
#2
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On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 6:38:46 AM UTC-7, wrote:
I have a v2Cx with 4 lift pins where the wings connect to the fuselage. These get cleaned and greased with white grease on each assembly. I'm noticing that the grease under the lift bearings gets squeezed out in flight. (Looks like maybe metal to metal contact.) Is there a preferred grease to use there. Maybe something with a graphite or moly fill? There are 2 prior threads that addressed this subject. Both are very informative. Check them out. https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/rec.aviation.soaring/Red$20n$20tacky/rec.aviation.soaring/w78L5_PtszE/HCk8muk-AgAJ https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/rec.aviation.soaring/Red$20n$20tacky/rec.aviation.soaring/WzrvfnwifrU/8aB5F6EmAgAJ |
#3
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On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 8:38:46 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a v2Cx with 4 lift pins where the wings connect to the fuselage. These get cleaned and greased with white grease on each assembly. I'm noticing that the grease under the lift bearings gets squeezed out in flight. (Looks like maybe metal to metal contact.) Is there a preferred grease to use there. Maybe something with a graphite or moly fill? SuperLube is super. Nothing comes close. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Lube-...EAAOSwCMtac3IU |
#4
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![]() SuperLube is super. Nothing comes close. Thanks You know I actually had some in the assembly box, but it felt too thin so I used the good old Lucas White. The SuperLube didn't pass the feels right test for grease that has served me well for wheel bearings for decades. Reading today I learned there are two grease film tests. Timken OK (ASTM 2509) for rolling bearings. Four Ball (ASTM 2596) for sliding things like ball joints. Super lube is a bit behind for rolling, but way ahead for sliding. Lucus Extreme Pressure Synthetic Grease appears even better? https://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Extreme...lve_Grease.pdf Today is clean out the white grease, inspect and put in the fancy stuff. I continue to be amazed at the new things to learn with gliders. |
#5
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Take a look at Lucas Red & Tacky. The Timken numbers are slightly better than the Extreme.
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Red-Tacky-Grease.pdf |
#6
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On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 6:38:46 AM UTC-7, wrote:
I have a v2Cx with 4 lift pins where the wings connect to the fuselage. These get cleaned and greased with white grease on each assembly. I'm noticing that the grease under the lift bearings gets squeezed out in flight. (Looks like maybe metal to metal contact.) Is there a preferred grease to use there. Maybe something with a graphite or moly fill? Try Aeroshell Grease 33. Don't get it on your clothes though - the properties that make it a good grease also make it difficult to get out of fabrics if you make a mess. |
#7
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On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 1:45:46 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 6:38:46 AM UTC-7, wrote: I have a v2Cx with 4 lift pins where the wings connect to the fuselage. These get cleaned and greased with white grease on each assembly. I'm noticing that the grease under the lift bearings gets squeezed out in flight. (Looks like maybe metal to metal contact.) Is there a preferred grease to use there. Maybe something with a graphite or moly fill? Try Aeroshell Grease 33. Don't get it on your clothes though - the properties that make it a good grease also make it difficult to get out of fabrics if you make a mess. Just get some spray-on silicone lube - it really doesn't matter what you use (if everything is aligned you don't need any lube, just clean the grease off of the pins). Certainly don't use anything that is messy, i.e. stains your clothes. Tom Tom |
#8
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Just get some spray-on silicone lube - it really doesn't matter what you use (if everything is aligned you don't need any lube, just clean the grease off of the pins). Certainly don't use anything that is messy, i.e. stains your clothes.
Tom Tom I wouldn't use any lube with silicone; makes it hard to paint. Matter of fact, I agree with Tom that the problem isn't lubrication, it's the unnecessary close tolerances those (mostly) German engineers design in. What I do is take a Dremel with a small 1cm diameter sanding stone and shave off about 0.5mm of steel from the receiver holes. Makes assembly much easier and no lubrication means its better on the environment. |
#9
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you are certainly not an engineer - that's the most stupid solution I ever heard of.
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#10
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On Tuesday, July 14, 2020 at 12:11:34 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
you are certainly not an engineer - that's the most stupid solution I ever heard of. Too radical for you? Well, sometimes one has to think out of the box to resolve difficult issues. I'll offer you a couple more solutions since I captured your attention: 1). Pin alignment: previously addressed. No need for that expensive "3-man rigger". 2). Flying in the northern states under weak conditions? I fill my water ballast tanks with helium gas (No, Capt. Obvious, do not use hydrogen!). The tanks must be completely sealed first, so I flush them with a little water and OTC "leak-stop" radiator plug. Glider too light and won't come down? Carry a small tank of N2O to purge out the helium. N2O is heavier than air, so titrate carefully to adjust rate of descent. (Note: After those exhausting 10 hr flights I like to hook my O2 system up to this tank; seems to take the edge off. 3). Static line or self-deployed parachute? Solved: Once I am settled in the cockpit, and before take-off, I pull the D-ring. That way following a mid-air collision and if unconsciousness ensues, deployment is totally automatic (No BRS rocket needed). Works better if you don't use seat belts, but that's OK as the stick will prevent you from submarining forward. |
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