Brake adjustment on the 2-33

Question to all of the 2-33 'connoiseurs' in the US:

I checked the brakes of both club 2-33. Although the linings look good,
I cannot get any decent brake action. I also noticed that the brake
lever on the wheel and the cable are almost in a straight line before
the linings contact the drum. So, no matter how hard one pulls on the
cable, the effective leverage is nearly zero. There is no slack
adjuster on the shoes as in automotive brakes. Unless I am missing
something here, the brakes cannot adjusted for wear. Our maintenance
manual does not reference anything on this subject.

1.) What is the maximum brake drum inside diameter?
2.) What is the wear limit on the linings? (No - the rivets are not
showing, in fact they are way down in the hole )

Thanks,

Uli Neumann

We have a turn buckle in the cable.. when the brakes wear down.. tighten the
buckle and reset with safety wire... when you install new brakes.. make the
turnbuckle big again..

BT

"GM" wrote in message
oups.com...
Question to all of the 2-33 'connoiseurs' in the US:

I checked the brakes of both club 2-33. Although the linings look good,
I cannot get any decent brake action. I also noticed that the brake
lever on the wheel and the cable are almost in a straight line before
the linings contact the drum. So, no matter how hard one pulls on the
cable, the effective leverage is nearly zero. There is no slack
adjuster on the shoes as in automotive brakes. Unless I am missing
something here, the brakes cannot adjusted for wear. Our maintenance
manual does not reference anything on this subject.

1.) What is the maximum brake drum inside diameter?
2.) What is the wear limit on the linings? (No - the rivets are not
showing, in fact they are way down in the hole )

Thanks,

Uli Neumann

If the lever and cable are practically in a straight line (as the poster
indicated), no amount of turn-buckle is going to help.

You should be able to remove the lever and rotate it on the spline in
order to get it back to a better angle.

5Z wrote:
You should be able to remove the lever and rotate it on the spline in
order to get it back to a better angle.


I tried that. There is no spline. The lever and the cam seem to be made
out of one piece.
And yes, if the cable is in line with said lever, it does not matter
how much I tighten the turn buckle.
I guess it all comes down to the drum diameter. I have the sneaky
suspicion that someone in the past bored them out way too big.

Again, does anyone have a number for the maximum permissible drum I.D.?

Uli Neumann

mmm... you may have a point.... but with out 2-33.. the brake is on max
extension of the spoilers.. as I presume most would be.. so it could be that
he is hitting max spoiler limit before the cable goes tight.. thus a turn
buckle to shorten the cable as required..

I'd have to look into our 2-33 to see what he means by .. straight line..

BT

"Atacdad" wrote in message
news
If the lever and cable are practically in a straight line (as the poster
indicated), no amount of turn-buckle is going to help.

Drum diameter is one possibility. As is that the cam on the arm, or the
portion of the brake shoe that touches it, is worn beyond useful life.
UH

Do 2-33's have brakes? I always thought the metal plate under the front was
the brakes.

that may work well on grass or dry lake beds..... but just slides on
pavement

brakes are the order of the day..

BT

"COLIN LAMB" wrote in message
ink.net...
Do 2-33's have brakes? I always thought the metal plate under the front
was
the brakes.

Schweizer did return my call for information on the the brakes. A very
helpfull Mr. Dave Wells gave me the I.D. for a new brake drum: 5.415"
(137.541mm). No wear limit, though.

Does anybody know of a wrecked 2-33 that is being parted out and may
have a good wheel assembly?

Uli Neumann