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#41
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nrp wrote:
I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded hole to clean the crud out of the threads. Probably .30 caliber rifle cleaning brushes. George Patterson Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to use the Internet and he won't bother you for weeks. |
#42
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On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 20:50:17 GMT, "Jay Honeck"
wrote: If you have a shield around the exhaust check for dirt, sand and small rocks. This will sound like the car is falling apart. Thanks, Michelle -- but I just found the source of the rattle ten minutes ago. I took the right rear door apart, and the retaining screws for the stereo speaker had simply vibrated out over the last 8 years. The speaker was just laying loose inside the door... And to think I laid under the car for 30 minutes trying to find loose stuff... Argh. Jay you should have better faith in Subaru ;-) |
#43
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OMG Jay that was one awsome read!! I had a smile on my face the whole time I
was reading it (all except the first part about the rough running engine) I know cause I like to work on my own cars and trucks, And my wife is now finally starting to accept the idea that she should get her hands dirty too! ![]() One day when I finally get my PPL and can own a plane I would love to get the tools out and tinker! I think I'll get the wife out to help too! :O "Jay Honeck" wrote in message news:SjLYe.157590$084.124008@attbi_s22... |
#44
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#45
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I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could
be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded hole to clean the crud out of the threads. I pump compressed air into the cylinder through one plug hole while picking the crud out of the threads of the other. This makes sure the stuff doesn't lay in the cylinder and get into places it shouldn't. Got to wear goggles while doing it, and a respirator is a good idea, since the dust has lead in it. Chunks of the stuff have caused problems when they break off in flight: they can foul a plug or get under a valve and reduce power. Not a good thing if you're just lifting off. Dan |
#46
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Good idea using a gun cleaning brush & an air blast.
Which also brings to mind a thought that John Thorp expressed many years ago. If compression is going to be measured, remove the bottom plug first so crud doesn't fall on an open exhaust valve sealing surface. Then rotate the engine to TDC before removing the top plug. |
#47
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My (50 years in the business) A&P has me replace the gaskets each time
I clean the plugs. I never reuse them. He as all the nice equipment that you mentioned. Easy job. ------------- Regards, Ross C-172F 180HP KSWI Jay Honeck wrote: : Did he also show you how to install new spark plug gaskets or re-anneal : the old ones? : Yep. Which reminds me... should one try to do that on the spark-plug thermocouples for measureing CHT? It's always bothered me that they *replace* the original copper gaskets. No. As long as you get the gasket/washer/thermocouple on the same way it came off, it's fine. Which, by the way, is also true of the regular copper washers/gaskets under your spark plugs, per my A&P. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#48
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The speaker
was just laying loose inside the door... Yum! Speaker eggs. |
#49
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On 25 Sep 2005 19:26:01 -0700, "nrp" wrote:
snip One minor additional thing - Occasionally also clean the sparkplug helicoil threads in the cylinder. Somewhere (a surplus tore as I recall) I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded hole to clean the crud out of the threads. Champion useta sell a thread chaser for this purpose. Looked a lot like a spark plug, had cut-outs in the threads to catch the crud. SOP was stick a finger full of grease into the cut-outs to help it "stick". TC |
#50
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