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#11
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![]() "Earl" wrote Rob said his tank had developed a leak. That would mean that there had been gasoline in the tank. I don't think anyone would suggest welding a used metal tank, how could it be any safer with a plastic one? Doh! I realized that, right after I hit send. I'm sure I would not have done that if it were sitting there in front of me! A soldering iron would be safe, and almost as effective at doing a little plastic welding. It is kinda' fun, if you have ever done it before. -- Jim in NC |
#12
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On Mar 2, 12:18 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
"Earl" wrote Rob said his tank had developed a leak. That would mean that there had been gasoline in the tank. I don't think anyone would suggest welding a used metal tank, how could it be any safer with a plastic one? Doh! I realized that, right after I hit send. I'm sure I would not have done that if it were sitting there in front of me! When I said "welded" in my original reply I had.assumed thatmost would take that as the "normal" method of welding plastic - with a plastic welder that uses hot air. Assumptions generaly BITE! As for the idea of red silisone - don't. Been there done that. Gave up the practice many years ago. No matter how small an amount you use the gas wil eventually swell it up and leak through. A waste of time and materials - IMHO |
#13
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In article ,
Earl wrote: Rob said his tank had developed a leak. That would mean that there had been gasoline in the tank. I don't think anyone would suggest welding a used metal tank, how could it be any safer with a plasic one? Steve in Michigan Actually, it is quite safe -- if done right. I have done this several times. 1. Look up "Dry Ice" in your Yellow Pages. 2. Get the smallest amount they will sell you (usually about 5 lb.) 3. Put it in the tank and let sit for about 1/2 hour. The dry ice (CO2 no thanks to Al Gore) displaces smothers the oxygen from the tank and will not support combustion. The nice thing about dry ice is that it leaves no residue, unlike filling the tank with water |
#14
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On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 20:51:21 GMT, Orval Fairbairn
wrote: In article , Earl wrote: Rob said his tank had developed a leak. That would mean that there had been gasoline in the tank. I don't think anyone would suggest welding a used metal tank, how could it be any safer with a plasic one? Steve in Michigan Actually, it is quite safe -- if done right. I have done this several times. 1. Look up "Dry Ice" in your Yellow Pages. 2. Get the smallest amount they will sell you (usually about 5 lb.) 3. Put it in the tank and let sit for about 1/2 hour. The dry ice (CO2 no thanks to Al Gore) displaces smothers the oxygen from the tank and will not support combustion. The nice thing about dry ice is that it leaves no residue, unlike filling the tank with water Welded (brazed) a patch on the oilpan of a '64 Riviera one day without pulling it. Rinsed out all the oil I could, first with varsol, then hot water - and filled the crankcase with a CO2 extinguisher. Had the apprentice sitting on the fender, giving it a little shot every minute or so untill I has the patch fully sweated on. (guy had driven into the rebar used to spike a parking cub down and HAD to leave for Chicago that evening - from Kitchener Ontario) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#15
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They make sealed end pop rivets. Use them to sandwich some pro-seal between
the tank and an aluminum plate. Tap the plate for the fitting. The old time fix is to rub the leak with a bar of soap. Seals the leak and gas won't dissolve it. "cavelamb himself" wrote in message nk.net... wrote: On Mar 1, 12:55 am, "Rob Turk" wrote: I'm looking for a sealant or kit to seal brass NPT inserts into a polyethylene tank. This is a Kitfox header tank that has developed a leak at one of the inserts. I'm probably going to use Mogas that has ethanol additives. Any hints, tips, thoughts? Thanks, Rob Polyethylene is pretty hard to glue anything to. LEAF has several sizes of rubber "plugs" that a barbed brass fitting can fit into. Drill a hole, press in the rubber plug, and poke the fitting into that. IIRC, I used 1/4" on my plane, but I think they have a 3/8" also. Other than that? New Tank? Richard |
#16
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Orval Fairbairn wrote:
In article , Earl wrote: Rob said his tank had developed a leak. That would mean that there had been gasoline in the tank. I don't think anyone would suggest welding a used metal tank, how could it be any safer with a plasic one? Steve in Michigan Actually, it is quite safe -- if done right. I have done this several times. 1. Look up "Dry Ice" in your Yellow Pages. 2. Get the smallest amount they will sell you (usually about 5 lb.) 3. Put it in the tank and let sit for about 1/2 hour. The dry ice (CO2 no thanks to Al Gore) displaces smothers the oxygen from the tank and will not support combustion. The nice thing about dry ice is that it leaves no residue, unlike filling the tank with water I've been using dry ice for a while now to extend the ice box on my boat. One summer and the cooler is crazed, cracked, and nearly useless. Wouldn't recommend this aproach on a plastic fuel tank. I'm gonna stick with this one: http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com...th=548_436_568 Fuel Tank Bushing SKU: H7285 $1.00 Richard |
#17
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"TerryJ" suptjudatcomcastdotnet wrote in message
. .. Teflon tape from ACE hardware.... "Rob Turk" wrote in message . .. I'm looking for a sealant or kit to seal brass NPT inserts into a polyethylene tank. This is a Kitfox header tank that has developed a leak at one of the inserts. I'm probably going to use Mogas that has ethanol additives. Any hints, tips, thoughts? Thanks, Rob Tried that, but it appears to be eaten by the ethanol additives from Mogas. Rob |
#18
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"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
nk.net... I'm gonna stick with this one: http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com...th=548_436_568 Fuel Tank Bushing SKU: H7285 $1.00 Richard That looks pretty convincing. Someone else suggested Dapco, which has the same plugs. I e-mailed Dapco and they confirmed their product to be good for this, including being Ethanol resilient. They are an OEM supplier so I don't think they will do small quantities, but I have not asked yet. Rob |
#19
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On Mar 3, 2:32 am, "Rob Turk" wrote:
"TerryJ" suptjudatcomcastdotnet wrote in message . .. Teflon tape from ACE hardware.... "Rob Turk" wrote in message ... I'm looking for a sealant or kit to seal brass NPT inserts into a polyethylene tank. This is aKitfoxheader tank that has developed a leak at one of the inserts. I'm probably going to use Mogas that has ethanol additives. Any hints, tips, thoughts? Thanks, Rob Tried that, but it appears to be eaten by the ethanol additives from Mogas. Rob There is only one thing that will work that I have tried other than plastic welding. Get a stick of the 2 part epoxy for fuel tanks. Knead together, and wrap around the thread then screw in the fitting. Once in make sure you always hold a wrench on it when you are screwing other fittings into it or it might break the seal. Mine has not leaked in over 3 years now. More Kitfox info and movies and GPS plotting stuff here http://www.cfisher.com Dave |
#20
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On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 08:36:23 +0100, "Rob Turk"
wrote: "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ink.net... I'm gonna stick with this one: http://store.leadingedgeairfoils.com...th=548_436_568 Fuel Tank Bushing SKU: H7285 $1.00 Richard That looks pretty convincing. Someone else suggested Dapco, which has the same plugs. I e-mailed Dapco and they confirmed their product to be good for this, including being Ethanol resilient. They are an OEM supplier so I don't think they will do small quantities, but I have not asked yet. Rob Can you hog it out to the next size pipe thread and put a reducer bushing in? Make sure you use a tapered pipe thread and do not overtighten it. Make sure you use FLEXIBLE line from the tank to the fuselage. Rigid tubing WILL eventually take the threts out of the poly tank. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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