How do I rig a netto variometer

I have a netto variometer, 80mm, oldschool that shows +200fpm to
-200fpm in 10 ft increments.

How do I set that up to show what the air is doing and not what the
glider is doing?

On Feb 15, 10:08*am, Scott Alexander
wrote:
I have a netto variometer, 80mm, oldschool that shows +200fpm to
-200fpm in 10 ft increments.

How do I set that up to show what the air is doing and not what the
glider is doing?

Throw it away if it really has a range of +/- 200 fpm. It won't be of
any use on any day that's worth getting the glider out of the box.

Andy

Throw it away if it really has a range of +/- 200 fpm. *It won't be of
any use on any day that's worth getting the glider out of the box.

Andy

I found it very helpful last year when I flew my diamond goal
distance.

Wings and wheels has one similar to this for sale on their website.
Obviously it's not my primary vario. I have another vario in the
panel that is +1000 fpm to -1000 fpm. When I rebuilt my panel there
was a sea of rubber tubing that I pulled apart. Now I'm using color
coded tubing for the replacement.

Anyone have a suggestion of how to rig it back up?

On Feb 15, 1:14*pm, Scott Alexander
wrote:
Throw it away if it really has a range of +/- 200 fpm. *It won't be of
any use on any day that's worth getting the glider out of the box.

Andy

I found it very helpful last year when I flew my diamond goal
distance.

Wings and wheels has one similar to this for sale on their website.
Obviously it's not my primary vario. *I have another vario in the
panel that is +1000 fpm to -1000 fpm. When I rebuilt my panel there
was a sea of rubber tubing that I pulled apart. *Now I'm using color
coded tubing for the replacement.

Anyone have a suggestion of how to rig it back up?

This is going to be much more productive if you tell us what make,
model, type (mechanical? Electric? Pellet?) vario you're talking
about.
John Cochrane

This is going to be much more productive if you tell us what make,
model, type (mechanical? Electric? Pellet?) vario you're talking
about.
John Cochrane

Thanks JC appreciate you chiming in.

It is mechanical, has two ports on the back, one says static, other
capacity. Emblem on front has a A W written on it. I know it's more
complicated than just plugging in the static line and the capacity
line. Not wanting to use it as a simple vario. I like the netto
idea.

On Feb 15, 10:39*pm, Scott Alexander
wrote:
This is going to be much more productive if you tell us what make,
model, type (mechanical? Electric? Pellet?) vario you're talking
about.
John Cochrane

Thanks JC appreciate you chiming in.

It is mechanical, has two ports on the back, one says static, other
capacity. *Emblem on front has a A W written on it. *I know it's more
complicated than just plugging in the static line and the capacity
line. *Not wanting to use it as a simple vario. *I like the netto
idea.

It sounds like you have a regular mechanical vario (Winter perhaps?).
Netto behavior is obtained by putting a calibrated leak from your
capacity to the static line, or a TE netto by leaking to the TE line.
Reichmann describes setting up a netto in Cross Country Soaring.

I'll try some ascii art:

+----------+
| vario |
| +----------+--- TE probe
| | |
| +-----+---X
+----------| |
|
capacity

I hope that comes out OK. The X in the line from the capacity bottle
to the TE line has to have a capillary tube in it. Start with a
longer
tube and cut it down until the vario reads 0 in still air. Remember
also
to greatly separate this vario from others on the same TE line; you
will get cross talk between the varios so that none of them read right
otherwise.

What is simpler is to have one of the modern fancy varios that
will give you netto readings if you want. My LX160 (not very
modern, really) will display netto during cruise if it's configured
properly. The various speed to fly varios (B50, C302, VW1020, LX,
etc.)
give you readings of what the air is doing compared to your
polar.

-- Matt

On Feb 15, 8:58*pm, mattm wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:39*pm, Scott Alexander
wrote:

This is going to be much more productive if you tell us what make,
model, type (mechanical? Electric? Pellet?) vario you're talking
about.
John Cochrane

Thanks JC appreciate you chiming in.

It is mechanical, has two ports on the back, one says static, other
capacity. *Emblem on front has a A W written on it. *I know it's more
complicated than just plugging in the static line and the capacity
line. *Not wanting to use it as a simple vario. *I like the netto
idea.

It sounds like you have a regular mechanical vario (Winter perhaps?).
Netto behavior is obtained by putting a calibrated leak from your
capacity to the static line, or a TE netto by leaking to the TE line.
Reichmann describes setting up a netto in Cross Country Soaring.

I'll try some ascii art:

+----------+
| *vario * |
| * * * * * +----------+--- * TE probe
| * * * * * | * * * * * *|
| * * * * * +-----+---X
+----------| * * *|
* * * * * * * * * *|
* * * * * * * *capacity

I hope that comes out OK. *The X in the line from the capacity bottle
to the TE line has to have a capillary tube in it. *Start with a
longer
tube and cut it down until the vario reads 0 in still air. *Remember
also
to greatly separate this vario from others on the same TE line; *you
will get cross talk between the varios so that none of them read right
otherwise.

What is simpler is to have one of the modern fancy varios that
will give you netto readings if you want. *My LX160 (not very
modern, really) will display netto during cruise if it's configured
properly. *The various speed to fly varios (B50, C302, VW1020, LX,
etc.)
give you readings of what the air is doing compared to your
polar.

-- Matt

Dick Ball wrote an article about calibrating varios a number of years
ago that has a very nice section on hooking up netto systems. I have
a PDF copy if you want to contact me by email.

Thanks,
Craig

"Scott Alexander" wrote in message
...

It is mechanical, has two ports on the back, one says static, other
capacity. Emblem on front has a A W written on it. I know it's more
complicated than just plugging in the static line and the capacity
line.

but it is.....that simple.. the "W" in the face is "Winter"
...if you want to use it as a basic mechanical variometer as it was
intended....connect to static or TE (TE is simply a "compensated" Static and
connect the other side to the proper size capacity bottle.....keeping in
mind that especially these very odd range variometers can and usually do use
a .90liter, or even 1.8 liter capacity bottle and not the normal .45 used on
almost every other variometer.
also remember that if this is a very old variometer just becuase the needle
appears to move in the correct direction doesn't mean it's any where close
to be accuarte anymore, most of these older instruments really need to be
overhauled even when kept in reasonibly good storage after 15-20 years old.
I see these all the time that are closer to 40 years old and the needles
move..but far from the way they were intended.
tim

--
Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com




Not wanting to use it as a simple vario. I like the netto
idea.




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On Feb 16, 1:55*pm, "Tim Mara" wrote:
"Scott Alexander" wrote in message

...



It is mechanical, has two ports on the back, one says static, other
capacity. *Emblem on front has a A W written on it. *I know it's more
complicated than just plugging in the static line and the capacity
line.

but it is.....that simple.. the "W" in the face is "Winter"
..if you want to use it as a basic mechanical variometer as it was
intended....connect to static or TE (TE is simply a "compensated" Static and
connect the other side to the proper size capacity bottle.....keeping in
mind that especially these very odd range variometers can and usually do use
a .90liter, or even 1.8 liter capacity bottle and not the normal .45 used on
almost every other variometer.
also remember that if this is a very old variometer just becuase the needle
appears to move in the correct direction doesn't mean it's any where close
to be accuarte anymore, most of these older instruments really need to be
overhauled even when kept in reasonibly good storage after 15-20 years old.
I see these all the time that are closer to 40 years old and the needles
move..but far from the way they were intended.
tim

--
Please visit the Wings & Wheels website atwww.wingsandwheels.com

Not wanting to use it as a simple vario. *I like the netto

idea.

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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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Hey, speaking of overhauling mechanical varios,
I have a Sage vario that's about 10 years old in my plane.
The plane has always lived in its trailer out at the airport (at least
since it got this vario). How out-of-whack is my Sage going to
be after that amount of time in the plane? I have to admit, I
barely ever look at the thing. I've trained myself to avoid looking
at the varios -- maybe once per scan to compare the 20s avg
with the achieved climb rate displayed on my pda. When my
LX vario went haywire on a flight last year I could barely cope.

Also, speaking of the LX160, would any of you LX people have the
chip on hand to upgrade it to v2.12? The last time I looked the
shipping charge from Slovenia was more than the chip cost!

-- Matt

"mattm" wrote in message
...
On Feb 16, 1:55 pm, "Tim Mara" wrote:

Hey, speaking of overhauling mechanical varios,
I have a Sage vario that's about 10 years old in my plane.
The plane has always lived in its trailer out at the airport (at least
since it got this vario). How out-of-whack is my Sage going to
be after that amount of time in the plane? I have to admit, I
barely ever look at the thing. I've trained myself to avoid looking
at the varios -- maybe once per scan to compare the 20s avg
with the achieved climb rate displayed on my pda. When my
LX vario went haywire on a flight last year I could barely cope.

unless it's leaking it's probably OK .10 years is a relatively short time in
instrument life...the Sage has very few moving parts and no jeweled
movements or mechanical bearings that can wear...they are sensative to
over-adjusting and can have leaks appear but these are things you can check
with some soapy water...aside from thsi as long as it doesn't get any hard
hits it should perform for years.

Also, speaking of the LX160, would any of you LX people have the
chip on hand to upgrade it to v2.12? The last time I looked the
shipping charge from Slovenia was more than the chip cost!

I have shipments coming from there frequently if you want me to place it on
my orders just let me know
give me a call
thanks
tim

--
Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com


-- Matt

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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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