Auto Tow Information

We found it better to use F250 than F150 - larger, more powerful, engine
and transmission give better acceleration, and we figured more likely to
be reliable if big engine not working too hard rather than small and
going at max output. The last ones we had, in 1988, were fine until we
had to stop autotow for other reasons. We went for "Super engine
cooling" which incorporates an extra oil cooler for the transmission -
launching involves high power at low road speed, and the transmission
oil needs all the help it can get.

The F250 spec we used in 1988 was:

F250 HD 4x2/133 w/base;

Omit radio;

Regular Cab Custom 7.5L V8;

Autotrans;

Super engine cooling;

Rr step bumper;

Spare wheel/tyre/carrier;

LPG conversion.

With a 4x2, it is important to have the tow hook at the back of the cab,
not at the back of the vehicle, so that the cable force does not lift
weight off the rear (driving) wheels. It is easier to get good tyre grip
with reverse pulley launching, where the cable pull is always horizontal
anyway.

You need a Tost or similar release to hook the cable on, to allow rapid
release in emergency.

A window in the roof is advisable.

There is a lot to take into account for reverse pulley launching.
Straight autotow is easier to equip and start operating. Even with that,
you need to follow others' lead in the cable/drogue/weak link/strop set
up and hardware, to avoid reinventing it by trial and error.

Chris N. (Essex, UK)

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