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I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		 
		
	
	
	well. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1 (copy and paste the address if it is too long) I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using the extractor (you do need a reversing drill). Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it work well? Regards, Bud Michael Horowitz wrote: I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube. Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head. Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing rusted screws? - Mike  | 
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