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In addition to the other responses, all of which are worth checking, I
can add a possiblity that happened to me that might possibly be worth checking. Shortly after take-off on a flight last year, I thought I noticed a small vibration in the engine. Very small. The only way I could tell for sure that something was wrong, was that it also was about 100 rpm down on power when I checked using a full power run in level flight. I returned to the field. A very good decision as it turned out. After much advice from others as to what the reason was (the engine idled perfectly, no signs of problems), I decided to do a ground up exam with the mark 1 eyeball, looking for telltale leaks, etc. I noticed a small trace of oil around the base of one cylinder. More like a dark ring where the cylinder bolts to the case. Suddenly a sight I will never forget jumped out at me. A close look at the cylinder base and I noticed that the top 1/2" stud, and 2 3/8" studs were broken off clean as a whistle with the top of the cylinder base flange, the nuts were gone! It almost looked like it was supposed to be that way. Upon removing the baffles, I noticed that a 1/2" and 3/8" stud on the bottom of the cylinder were also broken. I had only 2, 1/2" and 1, 3/8" nuts holding the cylinder on! This was allowing the cylinder to stretch a little under stress, and therfore the valves were not opening properly, and thus the small power loss. This engine had 1200 trouble free hours since OH. (Lyc O-360). In investigating causes of this, one of the reasons given for loose or broken studs, is having too thick a layer of paint or primer on the cylinder base flange. This puts a layer of paint between the flange and the nut, preventing proper tightening. This paint gets worn away after 100 or so hours of operation, causing a loose cylinder. So, maybe you should check for a loose cylinder. Also, I agree very much with those that say do not fly again until you have figured out what is wrong. Returning to the field probably saved my life. The NTSB accident reports show many planes have had cylinders come off in flight, like the Saratoga that landed in a soybean field in Wisconsin. Regards, Bud wrote: Do you ever have those days where you're just scratching your head? I've got an IO-540 (strapped to the right side of an E-Model Piper Aztec) that won't generate full RPM. Let me describe the takeoff sequence. During the run-up, both the feather check and the mag check are normal (done at 1700 RPM and 2000 RPM respectively.) During the takeoff roll, all seems normal, but initial climb is sluggish (not alarmingly so, but just enough to notice). The right side RPM indicator shows about 2450 RPM, while the left side is showing just above 2600 RPM (as usual). When setting climb power, bringing the power back to 25-inches on both sides will not cause the left side to lose measurable RPM, but the right side loses about 100. Synchronizing the propellers does cause the "beating" to go away when the RPM indicators indicate the same RPM, so I'm confident that the RPM gauge is reading correctly. During the initial tear down, it was noticed that the set-screw for the right governor was set at about as high an RPM as possible. So the initial feeling was that the governor was having a bad day. So far, we've: 1. Sent he governor out for overhaul. (Prop shop reported that it was fine.) 2. Swapped the propellers between the engines. (Problem does not follow the propeller.) 3. Swapped the governors between the engines. (Problem does not follow the governor.) 4. Verified full travel on the propeller controls (both in the cockpit and at the governor). The tech reps are suggesting that we send the engine back to Mattituck (it's a factory remanufactured engine which has been "Mattitucked" with about 100 hours on it), but I get the feeling that the tech reps and mechanics are essentially in guessing mode. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else to think about before we pull the engine? Thanks! -Rob |
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