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"Morgans" wrote: Normally the only thing electrical that is turned on via switches prior to cranking the engine is the beacon. I killed the beacon...still, two blades and no more. I then thought I'd kill the alt half of the master. On the next start attempt, it fired right up. I don't remember if it was after two or three blades. Maybe coincidence, maybe not having the t/c gyro and everything else electrical that doesn't go through the avionics master did the trick. I know what I am going to type is counter-intuitive, but hear me out. If you run into a battery that is not quite up to the job of getting enough cranking speed, try the following procedure. If it does not catch as quickly as it usually does, before you kill the battery, stop-turn everything off, for two minutes. Look at your watch, or timer. After the two is up, turn on your landing light, for one minute. Again, time it. Turn everything off, and immediately try turning it over to start. It will turn over faster than it did the first time. The theory is that putting a relatively small continuous load on the battery heats it up a bit, without taking too many amps out of it. The warm battery will now be capable of putting out more amps than it could at the temperature it was before. Anyone else ever hear of that, or do this procedure before? It has worked for me. I have heard of (probably on this group a couple years ago) but have never tried it. Cold starts depend on the amount of priming, also. |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Rust inhibitor? | Steve Thomas | Home Built | 10 | August 30th 03 09:34 PM |