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On Jun 24, 7:52*pm, ContestID67 wrote:
Some comments; 1) Crimping is very much the way to go. *The heat of soldering (unless you are very careful) can easily damage the dielectric insulator. Invariably you are then left with a blob of solder that must be wittled away to make thing fit. *Ugh. 2) The less expensive sub-$50 (but not dirt cheap) crimpers seem to work fine. *Ratcheting type is highly recommended as they enforce the correct amount of pressure. *The $200 units are made to hold up to repeated use over years, something most of us are unlikely to need. 3) Male/Female versus Two Males with coupler (whoa!) - Stick with the fewest possible connections. *Not only for the fact that there are fewer things to go wrong but because each extra connection looses 2db (rule of thumb) of your power. 4) While the boom is open, think about (if possible/practical/useful) pulling extra air lines, coax, etc. 5) Test, test, test, test and test again before buttoning this up. Get a professional to help out. *Well worth the expense. *Much better now than later. 6) If you are on the scene of a boom break (I have), resisting with all your might the temptation of cutting all the lines (air, coax) to speed up the removal of the dead beast from the scene of the crime. It is much better to try to take the time to disconnect things at the cockpit end and pull them back so that any necessary splicing is done in a easily accessible place. Enjoy, John DeRosa I'd raise that price limit a bit, the $50 crimpers I've seen will not be able to crimp tight enough to achieve a proper connection. Will it work most of the time. Sure. But I'd not want them in my aircraft. The ratcheting type crimpers have enough jaw pressure to properly crimp the wires (collapses a large % of the voids in the wire bundles, creates cold welds). The ratchet makes sure you crimp it all the way. And since many come with interchangeable dies once you need to crimp more than one type of connector the total cost is not too bad. The high end crimpers also have properly shaped hardened and polished steel jaws that will crimp with high pressure without deforming the connector. BTW I like the Ideal Crimpmaster because they are reasonably priced ~ $50 for the bare handle with die sets ~$30-$40 each. Crimpmaster handles and and a few dies are available at Home Depot etc. A great web site with good selection of dies is http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide08-11.html 3M, Amp and Anderson also make great high end ratcheting crimp tools for their line of crimp connectors. These are often ~$200-$300, feature heavier duty construction, fine tuning of crimp pressure, etc. Some crimp on connectors are more sensitive to others about using the right crimp tool, e.g. some fully insulated spade/ring connectors and Anderson PowerPole connectors. Not that I think JJ was really posting to ask for any advice, ... but I'd also not use a coupler. I'd just go inline M-BNC to F-BNC connectors. It is never too late to cut the tail off again and do it properly :-) Make sure they have gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. I'd also put a sleeve of heat shrink over the connectors to keep everything sealed from humidity/moisture etc. Some of the very high-shrink type that fit over the connectors but shrink to the coax. Darryl |
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