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We have one in our Glasair and I have never been really impressed
with it's output. Seems to run around 13.1 volts most of the time except for right after engine start. The ammeter does indicate a net flow of current INTO the battery. That might seem all right but when I start putting some serious loads on the system (nav lights, landing light, etc) the voltage drops to 12.8 or so and the low voltage light starts to glow. The way the voltage regulator is wired to the alternator is a little "different" than conventional. Instead of the voltage sense terminal of the regulator being connected directly to the B+ terminal of the alternator and thereby also electrically to the aircraft bus bar and battery, it is connected to a separate "reg" terminal of the alternator, which is fed by a diode trio parallelling the three positive-conducting diodes from the 3-phase stator going to the output (B+) terminal of the alternator. These diodes have the effect of isolating this regulator terminal from the aircraft bus. Why would you want to isolate the regulator from the load that it is supposed to regulate? The voltage at that terminal is also quite a bit higher than at the B+ output terminal. It seems to be about 15.8 volts. That is the voltage that the regulator reads and tries to hold. A resistor does connect across from the B+ terminal of the alternator to the "reg" terminal, probably to bleed some small voltage before the alternator starts spinning (it is about 1 volt) to the regulator to provide a small amount of initial field current to bootstrap the alternator into providing voltage when first starting. I notice that with the battery master turned on but the engine not running, the resistor gets hot. Probably due to the 10 volt or so drop across it. When the alternator gets running, the drop should only be a couple of volts and it should run cool, I imagine, no way to put my hand there while the engine is running. But, why don't they just connect the voltage regulator to the B+ terminal and program it for 13.8-14.2 volts? Don't you want to sense the voltage at the battery and the aircraft bus, not some isolated output voltage of the alternator? What if I just connected the regulator to the B+ ? I tried it. I disconnected the regulator from the regulator terminal at the alternator and connected it directly to the battery. Since the battery/bus will read much lower than the 15.8 volts the regulator expects to see, it will try to increase the field current until the bus voltage builds up to 15.8. At least, that is what I expected. I started up the engine and briefly saw the bus voltage climb over 15 volts and then the OverVoltage relay activated, disconnecting the field circuit from the alternator just like it is supposed to. So, you cannot connect the regulator as is to the battery/bus and have it work properly, since the set point is set at around 15.8 volts or so it seems. Way to high for normal operation. Could I use some sort of voltage divider between the regulator terminal at the alternator and the connection at the voltage regulator to pad down the input to the regulator to fool it and get it to supply enough field current to get that padded down voltage up to the 15.8 that it is programmed to do and thereby raise the battery/bus voltage with it to around 14.2 volts from the 13.1 or so that it now is? If so, then the divider could be adjustable and make the non-adjustable InterAv regulator adjustable. Any thoughts about all this? |
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