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On Jun 13, 4:45*pm, sisu1a wrote:
I've had excellent results with Cobra trailers with surge brakes over the last 15 years or so. Have 4 of them now and satisfied with them The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence. A lot of people on this forum *have had problems, and continue to do so. Electric brakes don't require anywhere near the amount of regiment to keep from posing an unsuspected hazard on the road, and unlike surge getups they're easily verified for full proper function *before ramming someone, or burning off a wheel going down a hill, etc... * I was resistant to the idea too, but Dave Nadler ranting about them some years back convinced me to look closer at them, and upon closer inspection found a lot of merits in this system. I converted my trailer and really grew to like the control and flexibility. In the meantime, accounts of scary and almost-scary incidents with surgies continue to pile up on this forum. Electric brakes are not a gimmick, and in practice you have infinitely more control over them, besides their other qualities that make them better suited to the realities of glider trailer duty. I'm not suggesting everyone should immediately rip their running gear off new trailers and go electric, but if you ever need to replace the gear (comes up often enough...) it makes zero sense to waste the extra money for a finicky, higher maintenance getup with limited function a lot more gotchas and a shorter shelf life. Would you say that horse owners care more about their horses than pilots care about their gliders? Why don't they use surge brakes? (well, other than one European manufacture that doesn't seem to get it...) Other than being 100% compatible with any suitable tow vehicle, are there any advantages to surge brakes that I'm overlooking? The list of disadvantages is kinda long, and the above advantage is of limited value since our own vehicles are usually hooked to our trailers... Are there any electric brake conversion options? Yes! The easiest/cheapest I know of is a Dexter Torflex axle (now available in galvanized flavor!). Most Cobras would use a #9 or #10, or possibly a custom one in between. It has the same swingarm type independent suspension and they all have custom welded mounting flanges made to your specs.http://www.dexteraxle.com/torflex_axles Here's the basics that need to be figured out to order a replacement:http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerp...tion-guide.htm ... and a diagram kinda showing what they're talking about.http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerp...tart-angle.htm Once a few of these are done to a range of Cobras, the std formulas for different years/gross weights will be well known and it will become a cookie cutter operation. The axles are ~$200, and one needs the brake equipped hub/drums to go with it, which are around $60-$80 apiece. Another $20-$50 on wiring, $50ish for a breakaway kit, and a nice controller like a Tekonsha Prodigy or StopRight Intellistop (same part, different manufacturer) is around $120. Rims/tires are planed around the offset and hole pattern, and cost whatever you get them for but these might as well be nice 14 or 15" wheels instead of those 12/13" toys they don't sell anywhere anyways. Wouldn't hurt to put real (metal) fenders on there too... much more blowout and deer resilient. -Paul (who also doesn't endorse my "Letter to Spindelberger" * ![]() ps, a quick google search of 'surge vs electric brakes' shows that I'm far from alone in my dim view of surge brakes... I just got back from the 2nd trip to the trailer service shop. They declared, "It can't be fixed". and recommended electric brakes (which they don't sell). I took the trailer with partially working brakes back to the airport where it will stay until we figure out a solution. I noticed the brakes dragging after a stop. If I accelerated hard enough to feel the "clunk" as the surge hitch extended, the dragging went away. Obviously some 'stiction' there somewhere. I tend to think if the mechanical surge brakes ever worked, they can be made to work again at least as well as when new. Then, maybe diligent maintenance can keep them 'sort of' working. That prospect doesn't leave me too happy. One of the weird things is the brake drums carry the wheel bearings which are two sealed tapered roller type. It would seem this would lead to some seriously hot bearings under hard braking - I've seen drums glowing cherry red. It appeared to me there was heat damage to the bearings. There's no doubt electric brakes are the absolute best solution. I'm certain a new axle with electric brakes can be made up to fit the original mounting holes for a few hundred dollars and this new setup would be far more reliable and require far less maintenance. Selling the idea to the people who write the checks, however, will be tough. |
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