Beringer Disc Brake Kit for Schemm-Hirth gliders - experience and effectiveness?

At 07:51 19 October 2017, Craig Lowrie wrote:
The HPH Shark gliders have a Berringer tubeless wheel
with Disc brake.
Until recently, I was the UK agent and have imported ~30
gliders. None
have suffered from problems with the tubeless wheel over
6 years. I'm
not sure that gliders with tubes could post such a good
record. Only one
glider which landed very heavily in soft ground had mud
between the
tyre and the Rim and would slowly go down. I stripped the
wheel and
cleaned it and it has been fine ever since. I have the
special jig but hav

to say that there is really no problem reassembling the
wheel if you are
a practical type. If the O-Ring is undamaged, I think it can
be lightly
greased and used again... I keep a spare just in case...

The Brake system is very good but must be free from air. I
also suspect
that the overpressure regulator in the system can be
responsible for
braking which is OK but not stunning.

I have fitted a Beringer system to a Pegase and that went
really well and
provided a really good soluition... I have photos if anybody
wants to
upgrade their glider... I don't know about the Tost
solution...

Craig Lowrie, UK

At 03:53 19 October 2017, wrote:
On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 6:30:06 PM UTC-7,
Michael Opitz
wrote:
At 20:32 18 October 2017, wrote:
Has anyone ever got a hydraulic Tost disk brake to
work WELL on
a
Ventus
2C=
M? I'm convinced I've bled my brakes as well as they
can be bled,
and
STILL=
the braking is very weak. I get some small braking
action, but
nowhere
ne=
ar being able to put the glider on its nose, or flat-spot
the tire. I
can
s=
low down for a taxiway turn off, so long as its well
ahead, but not
enough
=
to help on a short runway, or enough for a real
emergency stop. I
suspect
=
the wire cable between the control stick and the
cylinder under the
seat
mu=
st be stretching. I may try a thicker cable (I'm
experimental).


I have a Discus-2b with the factory Tost 5" wheel also.
We had real
problems bleeding all of the air out of the line. Biggo
at the factor

even sent me a pdf file with pictures in order to do it
correctly from
the bottom. It was a real bear to get all of the air out.
Also,
adjusting the cable/brake handle so that there is no
play helps a lot.

Finally, get a new brake pad even if the old one looks
OK. The new
one will be thicker, so the caliper won't have to squeeze
over as
great a distance to apply pressure. All of these items
add up.

RO

michael, can you post the pdf? I'm convinced I've done
everything
possible
regarding bleeding, but still don't have good braking. So I
don't expect
it
will help, but I'm desperate now. thanks.

There's plenty of stuff on the internet about motorcycle guys
having trouble bleeding brake hydraulics (including
Behringer). In some cases they recommend physically
disconnecting the calliper and/or master cylinder and tipping
it (rotating it) so the the bleed nipple(s) is physically at the
highest part - then bleeding the system; then re-attaching.
Also if the hydraulic line between the cylinder and calliper
has even the slightest 'high point' a bubble can lodge there
and won't be removed by conventional bleeding methods.
Some systems need pressure bleeding. Even the smallest
bubble will be a problem! If you really have got rid of all the
bubbles then your cable/housing is the problem (see Dave
Nadler's post).
Dave Walsh