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On Mon, 08 Mar 2004 03:53:56 GMT, Scott Gettings
wrote: : :In my experience, the mold transfers everything to the product. So your :initial plug has to be basically perfect, although you can remove a few tiny :"high" spots in your mold that were low spots in the plug. I agree, but even with a perfect mold, (using epoxy, wet layup and vacuum) unless I had a primer of some kind before the cloth went down, I'd end up with pinholes between the fiber bundles. Think of a tick tack toe grid, with the outside rows representing fibers. There would be a pinhole in the center square. It happened even when I tried a layup on a piece of plate glass. :A good, hard :molding gel coat helps a lot. Absolutely. And as good a plug as you can create, to take the mold off of. We used epoxy gel coat only. :You need to be at 2000 grit and buffed out to :be really smooth. I can't comment on nickel plating a mold, but you can get :very, very smooth with molding gel coats on complex surfaces. For flat :surfaces, or 2-D curves there are many more options. : :Using wax then PVA release agent will usually transfer some surface :imperfections to a product. After a few releases, you should be able to use :mold release wax alone. A few good coats of wax properly applied will transfer :negligible imperfections to the product. Nothing that can't be buffed out -- :as long as your resin is very hard and cured. Soft materials don't buff to a :high gloss nearly as well. I ended up using Frekote A-700NC, it's silicone based, non transfering. Very good stuff. |
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