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#1
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Good answers guys-
JJ's response got me thinking. Because I have greater elevator authority at higher speeds, I apply much harder brake when moving fast knowing I can keep the tail down with back stick. But it sounds like that may be tough on the drum. At 18:42 03 March 2004, Ken Ward wrote: In article , Stewart Kissel wrote: What is it that these guys do to improve braking? Assuming all ships could use help, are some (say a Ventus) more improved then others? How much $. Thank you. To start with, Michael at Vintage Brake has a primary business of doing drum brakes for vintage motorcycle racers. This means he has a lot of experience separating inferior mechanical brake assemblies from quality ones, he has a large assortment of pad materials on hand, he gets a lot of feedback from the racers about what works and what didn't, so ultimately he's got a good grasp of all the variables involved in picking a compound to match the mechanism and the application. So, I sent him my LAK-12 main wheel assembly, as the brakes just weren't up to the task of adequately slowing down a 1000# glider. Although my glider is Experimental, he won't reject other types; it's up to you and your mechanic to know what you can/can't do to your glider. He looked it over, and says the brake components are strong, well made, good materials used, etc; I think it comes straight out of a Blanki. We then discussed the typical operating conditions such as runway surface, temperature, wet/dry, weight. He also wanted cable length and dimensions of the brake lever pivot assembly. After all that, he recommended a pad material suited to stopping something heavy, low duty cycle, no glazing. He installed the new pad material on the existing shoes, cleaned and examined all pivoting parts, made sure the drum itself was smooth, then arced the pads to exactly fit the drums. Total cost was about $150. What I found was vastly improved braking. It worked great time after time, with no fading. Only drawback was that it worked a little *too* well, as vigorous braking at low speeds would lift the tail off the ground. I spoke with him and he recommended removing material from the leading edge of the pads, 0.5' at a time, just enough to keep the pad off the drum. This improved the situation, but I feel it's really more of an issue about where the brake is located with reference to the CG. Above 10-15kts full back stick keeps the tail planted, even with full brakes. Below that speed the tail starts coming up. Some say SZDs exhibit the same behavior. I'm going to take another 0.5' off this winter and put on a new tire. Ken San Jose, CA |
#2
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Stewart Kissel wrote:
What is it that these guys do to improve braking? Assuming all ships could use help, are some (say a Ventus) more improved then others? How much $. Thank you. This is one of those periodic topics. Here's what I did to greatly improve the braking of my old Tost drum brake. This is an old post. -Doug The article is by Tillman Steckner. I performed the modification exactly as he outlines, not difficult if you are somewhat handy with tools. It worked/works great. I can lift the tail off the ground if I want. The feel is progressive and has no tendency to 'grab'. If you botch the job, not likely in my opinion, then you simply have to replace one brake shoe because that is all that is modified. This has all been discussed here before. Do a google search on the newsgroup for "brake". Regards, -Doug From: "John Shelton" Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net Newsgroups: rec.aviation.soaring Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:16:41 GMT Subject: TOST brake mod? Years ago, a modification appeared in Soaring for TOST drum brakes. The idea was to get the braking shoe (the one engaged to stop when rolling forward) to push the non-braking shoe (used to stop when rolling backwards) against the drum thereby actually being able to stop. One friend did it to his DG300 and it worked great and is still working great. I have also heard that if done wrong, you end up on your nose. Does anyone know where I can get accurate sketches and description of this mod? Apparently, the sketch in Soaring was wrong. And, do I really want to do this? |
#3
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I had Michael "Mercury" Morris overhaul my Tost P.O.S. err I mean drum
brake. The new pads and blueprinting (as described by Bob and others in this thread) significantly improved braking and fade resistance. In addition, Mr Morris found and corrected a worn/ovalized actuator arm and hole on my Tost. I would recommend Mr. Morris and his modifications highly. That said, there is NO comparison between a (modified) Tost drum and a Cleveland disc brake. Putting anything less than a 500X5 Cleveland on a modern glider is ignorant. |
#4
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The old air-cooled volksie bugs were never known to have great brakes.
They weighed in at about 1600 lbs and had 80 sq in of brake area. A 15-meter might go 700 lbs and I doubt the common Tost brake has more than 15 sq in. There's just not that much braking surface to work our improvements on. BJ Stewart Kissel wrote: What is it that these guys do to improve braking? Assuming all ships could use help, are some (say a Ventus) more improved then others? How much $. Thank you. |
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