Removing oil galley plug

Thanks. If nothing else, we'll create an archive of what doesn't work!
Jim

"nrp" wrote in message
ups.com...
If you end up having to drill it out (ugh!), pressurize the galley from
somewhere else with shop air so that any chips get blown back to you.

I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
end up distorting the threads in the case.

Penetratiung lubes etc won't penetrate the threads if there is pipe
dope in them. Instead the lube will probably get on the wrenching
surfaces & make a stripout that much more likely.

My read at least...... Still - good luck!
nrp

"nrp" writes:


I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
end up distorting the threads in the case.

Nor am I; an EXZout is for when the head is stripped.

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Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
end up distorting the threads in the case.

Nor am I; an EZout is for when the head is stripped.

Boy was this unclear....

You use an EZout when the head of the screw/bolt is damaged.
Classic -- phillips head screws.

It's of little use if the screw/bolt is really stuck. You can drill
such out but it's a PITA.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
because...
1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
up with a new yellow/red line
2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
the other plugs.

-Robert, M20F

Hmm... thanks Robert. At least some of the rumors I've heard can be
confirmed.
Honestly, thanks, because instead of fighting with it, I'll leave it until
the end and move forward with the rest of the install.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
because...
1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
up with a new yellow/red line
2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
the other plugs.

-Robert, M20F

BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
ups.com...
BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

Jim Burns wrote:
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

Yes, the plug is behind the starter gear for me. However, our A&P used
a 90 degree drill and had another guy put direct pressure on it, while
he ran the drill. I think the reason we failed the first time was that
we didn't put enough pressure on it. Not using enough pressure will
strip it quick.

-Robert

Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
oups.com...
BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

(Drew Dalgleish) writes:

Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.

Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
will not melt the case so that's no worry.)





--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433