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#11
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Welding; How much undercut?
"J.Kahn" wrote in message . .. Fortuant1 wrote: Welds are pretty good, but I am having one further problem; After a minute or tow, my torch (a meco) often tends to go oxy, even though I had it set right in the first place. Not a big problem once I spot it early, but annoying al the same. It seems to stabilise after a while. Could be that my acetylene tank is just running down, but I thought that the regulators would cover that almost until the gas ran out.. Maybe I need new regulators.. I had the Kent White set and the Medalist acet regulator would hunt and surge and finally sent it back. Went out and bought another one locally which seems to work well. His video is highly recommended. I find the acet needs a few seconds to stablize any time there is an adjustment on that side. I have a Meco too and it is great, but seems to pop about as much as any other torch. Welding 049 with a N-2 tip I had the gas turned way up and it would still pop. May just be dirty. Kent also includes and recommends E70 rod but it is terrible rod to gas weld with and I switched to coat hanger to practice. Went out and got some RG45 which is wonderful. I can make more or less airworthy welds now, now working on making them look nice. Things got a LOT easier once I learned the importance of using the rod to help control the heat applied to the puddle so now I almost never get burnaways. Still having to do a lot of stopping and "adjusting", but about half the time now I can find that sweet spot where the puddle is just right, the torch angle and heat is just right, and I just have to move it along feeding the rod and the resulting bead looks like a tig bead. John Hi John, If you have a lot of problems with a torch popping, try running a little less OX. From a perfect appearing burn, you should richen the mix just enough to produce a little bit of feather. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" will usually make a world of difference. |
#12
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Welding; How much undercut?
Maxwell wrote:
"J.Kahn" wrote in message . .. Fortuant1 wrote: Welds are pretty good, but I am having one further problem; After a minute or tow, my torch (a meco) often tends to go oxy, even though I had it set right in the first place. Not a big problem once I spot it early, but annoying al the same. It seems to stabilise after a while. Could be that my acetylene tank is just running down, but I thought that the regulators would cover that almost until the gas ran out.. Maybe I need new regulators.. I had the Kent White set and the Medalist acet regulator would hunt and surge and finally sent it back. Went out and bought another one locally which seems to work well. His video is highly recommended. I find the acet needs a few seconds to stablize any time there is an adjustment on that side. I have a Meco too and it is great, but seems to pop about as much as any other torch. Welding 049 with a N-2 tip I had the gas turned way up and it would still pop. May just be dirty. Kent also includes and recommends E70 rod but it is terrible rod to gas weld with and I switched to coat hanger to practice. Went out and got some RG45 which is wonderful. I can make more or less airworthy welds now, now working on making them look nice. Things got a LOT easier once I learned the importance of using the rod to help control the heat applied to the puddle so now I almost never get burnaways. Still having to do a lot of stopping and "adjusting", but about half the time now I can find that sweet spot where the puddle is just right, the torch angle and heat is just right, and I just have to move it along feeding the rod and the resulting bead looks like a tig bead. John Hi John, If you have a lot of problems with a torch popping, try running a little less OX. From a perfect appearing burn, you should richen the mix just enough to produce a little bit of feather. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" will usually make a world of difference. Thanks I usually set it with a tiny bit of carb showing, just enough to soften the neutral cone edge. Are you saying a 1/4" to 1/2" long carburizing feather is ok? And I think my problem was the N-2 tip was a bit too big because the pieces are small and heat isn't sinking away. I just tried an N-1 tip nearly maxed out and it put out enough heat for a full puddle and no pops. This seems to be one of those borderline conditions where the best tip would be in between N-1 and N-2. I still have to get a 0 tip and a 0 tip drilled to about 0 and a half for doing .028 and .035. Cheers John |
#13
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Welding; How much undercut?
"J.Kahn" wrote in message . .. Maxwell wrote: "J.Kahn" wrote in message . .. Fortuant1 wrote: Welds are pretty good, but I am having one further problem; After a minute or tow, my torch (a meco) often tends to go oxy, even though I had it set right in the first place. Not a big problem once I spot it early, but annoying al the same. It seems to stabilise after a while. Could be that my acetylene tank is just running down, but I thought that the regulators would cover that almost until the gas ran out.. Maybe I need new regulators.. I had the Kent White set and the Medalist acet regulator would hunt and surge and finally sent it back. Went out and bought another one locally which seems to work well. His video is highly recommended. I find the acet needs a few seconds to stablize any time there is an adjustment on that side. I have a Meco too and it is great, but seems to pop about as much as any other torch. Welding 049 with a N-2 tip I had the gas turned way up and it would still pop. May just be dirty. Kent also includes and recommends E70 rod but it is terrible rod to gas weld with and I switched to coat hanger to practice. Went out and got some RG45 which is wonderful. I can make more or less airworthy welds now, now working on making them look nice. Things got a LOT easier once I learned the importance of using the rod to help control the heat applied to the puddle so now I almost never get burnaways. Still having to do a lot of stopping and "adjusting", but about half the time now I can find that sweet spot where the puddle is just right, the torch angle and heat is just right, and I just have to move it along feeding the rod and the resulting bead looks like a tig bead. John Hi John, If you have a lot of problems with a torch popping, try running a little less OX. From a perfect appearing burn, you should richen the mix just enough to produce a little bit of feather. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" will usually make a world of difference. Thanks I usually set it with a tiny bit of carb showing, just enough to soften the neutral cone edge. Are you saying a 1/4" to 1/2" long carburizing feather is ok? It shouldn't require an actual 1/2" to eliminate the popping problem, and you shouldn't add more than necessary to stop the torch from popping. But often when popping is a problem, you are running just a bit to lean. It will also cool that N-2 tip down just a bit. |
#14
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Welding; How much undercut?
70s-6 is a better choice than 45.
"J.Kahn" wrote: Fortuant1 wrote: Welds are pretty good, but I am having one further problem; After a minute or tow, my torch (a meco) often tends to go oxy, even though I had it set right in the first place. Not a big problem once I spot it early, but annoying al the same. It seems to stabilise after a while. Could be that my acetylene tank is just running down, but I thought that the regulators would cover that almost until the gas ran out.. Maybe I need new regulators.. I had the Kent White set and the Medalist acet regulator would hunt and surge and finally sent it back. Went out and bought another one locally which seems to work well. His video is highly recommended. I find the acet needs a few seconds to stablize any time there is an adjustment on that side. I have a Meco too and it is great, but seems to pop about as much as any other torch. Welding 049 with a N-2 tip I had the gas turned way up and it would still pop. May just be dirty. Kent also includes and recommends E70 rod but it is terrible rod to gas weld with and I switched to coat hanger to practice. Went out and got some RG45 which is wonderful. I can make more or less airworthy welds now, now working on making them look nice. Things got a LOT easier once I learned the importance of using the rod to help control the heat applied to the puddle so now I almost never get burnaways. Still having to do a lot of stopping and "adjusting", but about half the time now I can find that sweet spot where the puddle is just right, the torch angle and heat is just right, and I just have to move it along feeding the rod and the resulting bead looks like a tig bead. John -- ÿØÿà |
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