installing mylar

I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart. The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John

"ContestID67" wrote in message
oups.com...
I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart. The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John



John,

Your choice not to sand. However, if you check with some of the adhesive
mfgs(3M has good info on their site), you'll find that sanding is
recommended for optimal results with acrylic adhesive as are used to stick
down Mylar. Light sanding of the surfaces to be bonded is the way to go as
it provides the adhesive with more bonding surface and mechanical "bite".

As JJ noted, it's also important to have the surfaces squeaky clean, use
pressure (roller), and only apply tape to warm surfaces for best results.
Also position controls to keep pressure off the Mylars for a few hours as
acrylic gains strength over the first 24 or so.

bumper

I'm following this thread with interest. I've had
problems with mylar not sticking to the double sided
tape. The tape sticks quite well to the gel coat,
but the mylar doesn't want to stay stuck to the double
sided tape.

I've been accused of having an engine on my glider
as I pass over the airfield. But it's just that damned
loose mylar buzzing.

Of course, the hardest part of dealing with mylar is
getting the old stuff completely removed. The next
hardest is figuring out how to insure the mylar stays
stuck to the double sided tape.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina
LS1-d(t) :-)

At 06:12 31 July 2007, Bumper wrote:

'ContestID67' wrote in message
roups.com...
I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that
these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't
and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart.
The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John

Ray Lovinggood wrote:
I'm following this thread with interest. I've had
problems with mylar not sticking to the double sided
tape. The tape sticks quite well to the gel coat,
but the mylar doesn't want to stay stuck to the double
sided tape.

I've been accused of having an engine on my glider
as I pass over the airfield. But it's just that damned
loose mylar buzzing.

Of course, the hardest part of dealing with mylar is
getting the old stuff completely removed. The next
hardest is figuring out how to insure the mylar stays
stuck to the double sided tape.

I bought mylar from the sailplane dealer with the adhesive already on
the mylar, hoping the people supplying the product knew what they were
doing. So far, so good, after 6 months and 30 or so flights in a variety
of conditions - dry, humid, cold, hot.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
* "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

Ya got to sand it Ray, believe me that shiny surface
won't hold the bond. I have seen a whole lot of mylar
that didn't stick over the years, but to my knowledge,
none has come off that I installed using light sanding
with 220 dry. I'm only talking about the 10mm strip
under the mylar. There's nothing new here, we must
sand before painting, we must sand before applying
resin. it gives the surface a 'tooth'. Every now and
then I see a fiberglass patch that someone has scabbed
on without sanding the surface, I just get a fingernail
under one side and off it comes easier than removing
wing tape.
JJ

Of course, the hardest part of dealing with mylar is
getting the old stuff completely removed. The next
hardest is figuring out how to insure the mylar stays
stuck to the double sided tape.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina
LS1-d(t) :-)

At 06:12 31 July 2007, Bumper wrote:

'ContestID67' wrote in message
groups.com...
I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that
these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't
and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart.
The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John

Thank You, JJ. I'll make this the next project to
tackle. Hopefully, this coming weekend.

Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina, USA
LS1-d(t) (when the mylar is loose and buzzing in the
breeze!)

At 12:54 31 July 2007, John Sinclair wrote:
Ya got to sand it Ray, believe me that shiny surface
won't hold the bond. I have seen a whole lot of mylar
that didn't stick over the years, but to my knowledge,
none has come off that I installed using light sanding
with 220 dry. I'm only talking about the 10mm strip
under the mylar. There's nothing new here, we must
sand before painting, we must sand before applying
resin. it gives the surface a 'tooth'. Every now and
then I see a fiberglass patch that someone has scabbed
on without sanding the surface, I just get a fingernail
under one side and off it comes easier than removing
wing tape.
JJ

Of course, the hardest part of dealing with mylar is
getting the old stuff completely removed. The next
hardest is figuring out how to insure the mylar stays
stuck to the double sided tape.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina
LS1-d(t) :-)

At 06:12 31 July 2007, Bumper wrote:

'ContestID67' wrote in message
egroups.com...
I did it myself and it was quite easy. I assume that
these are
external seal tape, not internal seals.

The previous post mentioned sanding with 220. I didn't
and wouldn't.
In my book
gelcoat and sandpaper should stay far, far, apart.
The seals have
stuck for
3 years now with zero problems.

Having a friend help get things on straight is useful.

- John